Home Builders & Renovator

Home Buyers / Home Owners - Ask a Question

Rear Garden

Q: We have a small area which is a long rectangular shape and we want to do something that looks neat, tidy and low maintenance. What can we do? Our dog has to live in the area too.

A: Sounds ideal for a cricket pitch. Maybe plant some trees along the side that do not require a whole heap of maintenance. A good balance of lawn and paving could also make quite a visual difference. Will it be an area for entertainment? If so, decking is essential. There are so many options really. A pergola, a barbeque and a chicken wire fenced vegetable garden would be nice. Have a look at some gardening magazines. That will inspire your thinking.

Painting a brown kitchen

Q: What colours would suit a kitchen/family area/laundry upgrade to a home 30 odd years old with quite a bit of dark brown feature brickwork internally at present.

A: A coat of paint is probably the least expensive way to revive your interior. Colours should be neutral, elegant and if you have trouble capturing much daylight, a skylight or a lighter colour could help. For a flashy result, apply a cement-based paint for a nice textured finish. For excellent interior guidance, a decorator or an architect is ideal for making great value judgements on planning and design.

Window coverings

Q: We have a mud brick home (10yrs) and are currently installing built in robe in 2 doors jarrah timber, 2 mirror doors. Bedroom is south/south east facing and cannot decide on curtains and painting colour. Do not like patterned curtains, but don't want something boring. Any suggestions?

A: Timber blinds come highly recommended. They're timeless and tasteful. You won't have to worry about colours going out of fashion. Paint the walls a creme colour. Since the room is only lit by passive daylight, you will want a lighter colour.

Rude ducks

Q: I have a beautiful new pool and it is frequented by ducks daily, and whilst I love the ducks they make a terrible mess in the pool. Is there something you could suggest?

A: Consider a scarecrow the size of a grown man. Or how about a bird dog? Try contacting the Wilderness Society or a pool cleaning consultant.

Gyprock

Q: The whole interior of our house is lined with pine shiplap including ceilings, I am in the process of lining over the timber walls with gyprock. have heard there is a way to fix the gyprock without having to change the width of the architraves, or by butting the gyprock up to the door surrounds. This method was on one of the d.i.y. shows recently but I didn't see it. Could you please help me out with this?

A: I didn't see the program but my wife did. Apparently there's a thin plasterboard sheet (imagine two layers of cardboard thin) that you can glue over the wall covering. It's the best approach without removing skirting boards and architraves. Next step is to contact the manufacturer. CSR and Boral would be the right companies to get in contact with.

Ugly Fence

Q: We have just moved into a new townhouse and we have just had built a pergola but we still have a border garden and the fence stands out like a sore thumb, what can I do, what can I plant that is modern yet it will cover the fence?

A: By painting it a recessive colour, the fence will be able to blend into the environment. Fast-growing climbers like wisterias, I believe, would tone down the vulgar nature of the fence. Another option would be to line the fence with some tasteful statues. Try the Landscape Architects Institute of Australia at
03.9650 1898.

Damp

Q: Hi we bought a house about 4 months ago and always noticed that when we slept in one of the room's that our cloths felt damp in the morning. Do you think this is a rising damp problem?

A: It's hard to diagnose the problem without a proper site inspection. Either water is coming from up above or from down below. Could be coming from the top down or the bottom up. Now it's a process of elimination, finding out the source of the problem. Could be three things: leak, breakdowns in damp proof course or lack of ventilation. Have an Archicentre architect out for an independent look, or a damp specialist.

Warehouse design

Q: We are wanting to divide a large room into two (study & nursery) but want to keep the flow of our warehouse apartment. We are looking at a divider of some kind and were thinking maybe a fake wall on one side and a hidden clothing cupboard on the other. Can you help?

A: Designers thrive in these situations. The divider with hidden cupboards is a great idea. Also good is a wall on wheels that you can shift around to suit an area that requires privacy or to open up if you need more space to entertain friends. An interior decorator or an architect would be the person to have a chat with.

Linseed Oil on Floorboards

Q: I've heard linseed oil is good for getting floorboards shining. Is this true? If so, can you tell me when I get some?

A: Linseed oil is extremely practical and available from most hardware outlets. Cold pressed linseed oil has finer molecules therefore deeper penetrating. The mix with varnish actually reduces the amount of absorption of oil into the timber and weakens the structure of the urethanes. Plastic will reduce the breathability of the timber, which should be avoided for health and mechanical reasons. White spirit is very clean and highly refined petrol (benzene) and contains many toxins. On its own it is highly toxic. You may obtain more specific information and data sheet of the products we use at www.livos.com.au

Gaps between Floorboards

Q: Six months ago, we purchased a 1930's solid brick 'half house'. The internal walls are also solid brick. There is a gap between the floorboards and the skirting boards throughout. We were told that this was because carpet had been originally in place, but we are suspicious. Could the stumps be sinking? There are no discernable cracks in the walls or ceilings, except for some slight bowing (perhaps they were covered up before the sale!) and the 'jump test' doesn't indicate any bounce, except for a small section near the front door. We want to renovate the kitchen and facelift the bathroom, but are too concerned about potential structural problems?

A: For that era, gaps between the floorboards and skirting were highly unusual, although in recent years it has been done for carpeting purposes. It is possible that the floor-framing timbers have started to rot against the brick wall, forcing them to drop slightly. Even though they won't bounce, nor reveal discernible damage to the floor itself, the problem is serious and must be rectified. Try and gain access beneath the floor to examine the problem. There is a chance that the floor framing timbers could rot out causing the floor to drop significantly. If access is troublesome, you may have to cut an opening in the floorboard to crawl down and have a look. Archicentre offers Architect Advice reports and it appears like your problem could depend on professional help.

Rising Damp

Q: The damp coursing mortar is in very poor condition. There is no indication internally of rising damp, however, we are worried that the condition of the damp courses could have contributed to the deterioration of the house's structure. Is this possible?

A: The purpose of the damp course is to prevent water from rising up through the brickwork, therefore making internal walls damp, rotting skirting boards, floorboards and even sub-floor framing. Once the ominous signs appear - the flaky paint, musty smells, and visible mould growth - then the damp is well-advanced. If you are concerned, get an Architect's Advice Report because Archicentre architects use sensitive damp meters that can detect damp long before any damage is caused. If the problem is serious Archicentre can recommend a qualified damp control specialist.

Wine Cellar

Q: I am seriously thinking about installing some form of a cellar in our home, largely for wine storage but, not necessarily exclusively for wine, and was hoping to gain some information as to how to proceed.

A: Storage cellars are very attractive, yet the construction of a wine cellar in your existing house may require a laborious effort. With excavation, water disposal, etc., the labour costs would seriously stretch the budget. It might be far more cost-effective to build an extension, as long as there's room in the rear of the house. Part of the attraction of a traditional wine cellar was to control the temperature. For serious wine aficionados, this can also be achieved with modern cooling systems and for a small space the price would be reasonable.

Renovations

Q: We have an old home on a rural block that's had several additions over the years. So many in fact, the home has lost some character. Is it possible to renovate it ourselves, obtain a more cohesive style, and remain within budget?

A: It's not unusual for owner builders or tradespeople to add unsympathetic additions to houses. Many lack the design experience or the funds to realise an ambitious project. A series of extensions over time, added as needs change - rather than a clear, long-term vision - is likely to disrupt the form of the house. Money plays an obvious role in deciding what options are available, but even a modest budget used creatively can go a long way to unifying a home's shape. For instance, by adjusting a roofline at odds with itself, you not only improve the external appearance, but also internally create harmony in the design. The best solution is to have an architect make an inspection of your home and draw plans and a feasibility study as to what can be achieved within a certain budget. The Archicentre home renovations report is an option. They will also be able to recommend independent work that you can do to help stretch your budget further.

Renovations

Q: We own a block on Mount Martha and want to build on it. The lot is steep, and we've been told by a builder that site expenses will be higher than normal. If this is true, can you give us advice on what the most economical approach to construction would be?

A: The short answer is yes, sloping sites involve higher costs, but a lot hangs on the individual design of a building. The reason for higher costs is excavation. On a flat site of coastal sand, all you need is a slight mound for the slab to sit on. In this situation, levelling and compacting the ground prior to building can be as little as $400. On a sloping site it can be anything up to $16,000 - depending on the type of soil. A design that steps down the slope will be less costly than one which requires support construction below the floor line. The support construction will introduce several levels that require connecting stairs. If you're after easy living and housework this is not the answer. It does however, naturally define living spaces and can be an interesting design approach. If you favour a contemporary design rather than a mock-period style, you may achieve a more satisfying result. Smartly designed steel frame supports can be an integral part of the concept, rather than employing mass materials like masonry or concrete. Not only will this make a sleek dramatic look, but it will also create extra outdoor and indoor living spaces, which naturally come out of the fall of the land. You could also consider a pole frame construction with a series of platforms stepping down the slope to form the various living areas. The same need for linking stairways applies here. Finally, termites are a concern, especially in Mount Martha. According to Archicentre pre-purchase home inspections, 71% of homes in this area are infested with vermin. So the use of resistant materials and detailing is crucial.

Overshadowing

Q: I have a single-storey house in Rozelle and my neighbour proposes to add a second storey that falls on my boundary. They have produced drawings and diagrams showing how the shadow will not effect my property, but I do not trust the accuracy of these diagrams. I am worried that the sun will be obscured from my back area. At present it is a very sunny place and used a lot for barbeques and entertaining. What should I do?

A: You should seek independent professional advice to ascertain the impact of this proposed development on your property. Through Archicentre, an architect can visit your property and inspect the drawings of the proposal. The architect can produce shadow diagrams at different times of the day to demonstrate how your back area will be shaded in consequence of the development. Additionally, the report will cover aspects like the loss of privacy, and the impact on the streetscape. This information will provide you with the evidence needed to lodge an effective complaint with the local council.

Renovating

Q: We are interested in buying and renovating a home in Fremantle. We would like to enlarge the lounge area by removing a sliding door and wall. Are there any problems with this?

A: To remove the whole wall you will need to replace it with a beam. If the house is timber framed, then timber will work best. The size of the beam will depend on the span and load to be carried. Check in the ceiling space for two things: does the wall carry the weight of the ceiling joists? And secondly, are there any struts off this wall supporting the roof? If the wall bracing is removed, the structure will be weakened. You will need the advice of a local architect and possibly an engineer or qualified builder. Archicentre can arrange for an architect to assess your proposed lounge extension and guide you as to what is safe and practical.

Glass bricks

Q: Just how strong are glass bricks? My husband and I are building an extension that was recently passed by council, and he has this idea that we could have three walls entirely made out of glass bricks - including the floor. Apart from looking radical, I suspect practical problems. What do you advise?

A: Glass bricks are actually very strong - that's why fibreglass is used to reinforce boats. Glass bricks are equivalent to ordinary bricks. The safety aspect depends on detailing and the stiffening of the wall. Glass bricks are laid one on top of the other (called laid stack bond) and not overlaid as in ordinary brick, so joint reinforcement is necessary. Stiffen the walls by running them into cross walls, using steel piers or even buttresses. The architectural design of the building is essential and you'd need to be familiar with how glass bricks behave. Waterproofing is also important. This is not a job for an amateur. Glass bricks used in floors are typically supported by a square steel grid - you'll see this in footpaths near pubs. They have been used as basement lighting for years. They are aesthetically pleasing if you have a room below and you want to let more light in. This effect is trendy in restaurants. Glass bricks in an exterior wall close to a boundary may present a fire risk, an issue covered in local council law and the Building Code of Australia.

Renovations

Q: "We are currently weighing the pros and cons of using an architect. We do not want a "cutting-edge" renovation and certainly do not want the pressure of dealing with someone who wants to put his or her "stamp" on the place. That said, is there a role for an architect in our renovation and what is the average percentage charged? Does this include advice on fittings and fixtures?"

A: "Why have a "cutting-edge" renovation when you can have something that perfectly suits your needs. The "cutting edge" makes great news, but what won't be on the front page is how an architect turned a modest budget under budget. Yet at Archicentre this happens everyday. Using an architect really depends on how much value you place in a home. If room layout, circulation, siting, sun, passive solar heating, views and priceless lifestyle benefits are important, it's probably best to use an architect. Archicentre runs a service for people who have renovation dreams, but don't know where to begin. It's called the Archicentre Renovator report. Following a detailed home briefing, the architect produces concept drawings with one objective: to capture your vision. For optimum value, the architect should present detailed drawings to several builders as part of a competitive tender. If this job is managed intelligently, your architect's fees will be minimal. Don't be surprised if there is a huge difference between the highest and lowest tender; 40% to 60% is not unusual. The architect's standard fee of 10-15% is merely a quarter of the difference. Advice on fittings and fixtures is included. For further details contact Archicentre.

Heritage

Q: We have recently purchased a small Victorian terrace in Hobart. The house belongs to a heritage conservation area and we wonder how this might impact our renovation plans. For instance, we would like to put wrought iron security bars on the front windows of the house and perhaps a high brick fence that would allow privacy in the small front yard. Do you think we could risk putting bars on the windows without notifying the Council? We don't want to get bogged down in red tape.

A: Securing windows with iron bars was not exactly uncommon during the Victorian era. It shouldn't be a problem with the planning department, however, a courtesy call may be necessary. The brick fence on the other hand could interfere with Victorian-type aesthetics. Heritage areas can be very sensitive about these things. Perhaps, a picket fence would be sympathetic and true to the original style. It's best to consult an architect specialising in heritage areas. They will also provide guidance through the sometimes long-winded planning and building appeals process. Finally, a picket fence might not appear threatening to a burglar, but it's the right choice. Many homeowners have the erroneous belief that a tall front fence acts as an effective defense mechanism. However, the opposite is true. The fence invites intruders in, and then allows them complete neighborhood privacy to conduct their underhanded endeavours.