Home Buyers / Home Owners

Home Builders & Renovators - Ask a Question

Further Questions & Answers

Fixing Gyprock

Q. The whole interior of our house is lined with pine shiplap including ceilings. I am in the process of lining the timber walls with gyprock. I have heard there is a way to fix the gyprock without having to change the width of the architraves, or by butting the gyprock up to the door surrounds. This method was on one of the d.i.y. shows recently but I didn't see it. Could you please help me out with this.

A. I didn't see the program but my wife did. Apparently there's a thin plasterboard sheet (imagine two layers of cardboard thin) that you can glue over the wall covering. It's the best approach without removing skirting boards and architraves. CSR and Boral would be two manufacturers worth contacting.

Landscaping

Q. We have just moved into a new townhouse and we have just had built a pergola but we still have a border garden and the fence stands out like a sore thumb, what can I do, what can I plant that is modern yet it will cover the fence?

A. By painting it a recessive colour, the fence will be able to blend into the environment. Fast-growing climbers like wisterias, I believe, would tone down the stand-out nature of the fence. Another option would be to line the fence with some tasteful statues. Try the Landscape Architects Institute of Australia at (03) 9650 1898.

Espalier planting

Q. How can I maximise the space in my two small court yards which is brick paved, whilst also cover the ugly fencing that surrounds the property?

A. Espalier is a technique used for planting beside a wall so the plants grow along the length of the wall. The technique takes some skill so you want to consult a nursery specialist about the correct instructions. The other option is also French, Trompe L'Oeil, a three-dimensional vista mural that looks like an extension of your garden, similar to an old Hollywood movie set. Of course this would require you to commission an artist, so only serious garden enthusiasts need apply.

Ceiling Heights

Q: It is possible to get approval on a performance provision under the Building Code of Aust to have a ceiling less than 2.4 for habitable areas but it is unlikely that anything less than about 2.3 would be approved and each case is assessed on its own merits. In any case, there is also a requirement for the internal floor to be a minimum of 225mm above the surrounding ground level. We normally find that it is not economical to excavate to provide the required heights as a result of the cost of excavation, retaining walls and the likely problems with drainage.

A: The height requirements are as follows:-
Habitable ares- lounge, family, dining, kitchen, bedrooms, etc - 2.4m minimum Service areas - bathrooms, wc, laundry, stores - 2.1m minimum

Calculation of overshadow

Q. We own an old 2 bedroom limestone semi-detached terrace house in Fremantle WA. We are currently reviewing whether to move to a larger house or to extend where we currently are due to a growing family.

Our house runs east / west and has a mirrored structure on the other side of a common wall ( 400mm of lime stone ). Our property is on the North side of the two houses and the neighbor's property is on the south side which does not get much sun light as it is. We hope to build a second storey on the back of the house which will increase the shadow over the neighbors roof line and will have a slight impact on their back yard, I have referred to the Residential design codes of WA (pg 85) and it states that the vertical sun angle to be used to calculate overshadow is 33 degrees.

My question is does the shadow produced from an extension that is cast over the roof of an adjacent structure considered as a part of the overall overshadow as this area is not usable (livable) space.

A. The "deemed to satisfy" provisions of the R Codes say that the shadow cast by all structures (mainly the house, but some Shires also include outbuildings, etc.) at noon at July 22 (which they say is 33° [it is actually 35°]) must not exceed 25% of the adjacent site surface area for a site zoned R25. The allowable % changes with zoning densities. See R Codes 3.9.1.

The code can be viewed on the Planning Commission website www.planning.wa.gov.au.

Your best bet is to have the design analysed by one of our architects in an Architects' Advice Report. Or, better still, to have a custom design prepared for you by an architect to meet your needs and work with the constraints of the site. NB: that the Building Code now has energy provisions in force as well, to encourage more responsible design to suit the local climate. Archicentre's Renovation Design Report is perfect for this task. You will receive a design, written report and opinion of cost, in a feasibility report on your project.

Structural Renovation

Q: To knock out interior walls for the purposes of renovation do I need Council Approval? And who can tell me whether or not the interior walls are structural?

A: Yes, you will need council approval, which is required for any construction valued at more than $5,000. An architect can tell you if the walls are structural, in addition to helping you go about your renovation in the best, most economical way possible.

Pool

Q: I have an above ground pool. There is a tree root growing under the liner about 1 metre in, I don't really want to empty the pool with the water restrictions we have in South Australia. I have found the root on the outside of the pool. Can I cut it and kill it somehow, if so what could I use. Thank you for your help. Its only about 1 and a half centimetres round if i try to pull it out it will rip the liner possibly.

A: A machete could work, but for a tidy kill, use an axe. Cut the root clean through, leaving little hope for regrowth.

Insulation

Q: What is the most cost effective way to insulate a brick veneer home (30 years old) - I require better ceiling insulation and have NO floor or wall insulation.

A: The easiest way to install insulation would be to install fibreglass batts, treated fluff, or aluminium foil, all three have similar characteristics and provided there is access to the roof, all three are easy to install. There is no easy way to install insulation in your walls and floors.

Pools

Q: I have a beautiful new pool and it is frequented by ducks daily, and whilst I love the ducks they make a terrible mess in the pool. I have tried fake snakes, putting inflatable balls over the surface, 6 times I have used the Duck Off liquid, nothing appears to be working. Is there something you could suggest?

A: Consider a scarecrow the size of a grown man. Or how about a bird dog? Try contacting the Wilderness Society or a pool cleaning consultant.

Waterproofing the bathroom

Q: Trying to obtain information about waterproofing the bathroom walls and floor prior to tiling. We have been told about six different waterproofing agents and are completely confused. What agent is best, when we are not having a shower base. The floor is concrete and the walls are villaboard.

A: It’s a competitive market out there, you have probably just encountered a number of similar products, marketed in there own special way. If you are struggling with the right product always go with a brand that you are familiar with, at a price that is competitive. Waterproofing demands proper application. Be sure to consult a professional when undertaking this critical part of bathroom renovations.

Decking

Q: I’m building a deck of the side of my house and wanted some timber sizes so I can cost the job. It's a 6.5m by 5m deck coming off the side of the house - what size bearers and joists should I use and what spacing should they be? What is the spacing for the piers that the bearers rest on?

A: There are timber span sizes available. Contact the Timber Promotion Council in your state. You may need building approval for a deck this size.

Structural Renovation

Q: We have recently put a pool in our front yard and would like to know what types of palms would be best to plant around the pool. We are looking for something that will grow reasonably quickly and will be 3-4 metres high with a span of about 1-2 metres

A: Your local nursery will be able to advise which species of palm will best grow in your climate. Palms or eucalyptus are better than deciduous trees because they don’t shed leaves, which can get trapped in your pool filters. They also look magnificent in the sun.

Decking

Q: Can I use LIQUID NAILS to glue decking boards to bricks (small steps) and glossy tiles (tiled ledge 2mtrs x 80mm)?

A: Liquid nails will bond to many surfaces, but old or glass surfaces may need special preparation. You should contact the manufacturer.

Interiors

Q: We have a mud brick home (10yrs) and are currently installing built in robe in 2 doors jarrah timber, 2 mirror doors. Bedroom is south/south east facing and cannot decide on curtains and painting colour. Do not like patterned curtains, but don't want something boring. Any suggestions?

A: Timber blinds come highly recommended. They’re timeless and tasteful. You won’t have to worry about colours going out of fashion. Paint the walls a crème colour. Since the room is only lit by passive daylight, you will want a lighter colour.

Bushfire Safety Design Principles

Q. I am planning to build on the outer urban fringe of Melbourne. How can I build bushfire safety design principles into my home?

A: Consider building on flat ground on a concrete slab. If you build on a slope fit the house into the slope rather than have it supported on poles.

Make sure you build in a location where there is a fuel break around the home.

Keep the exterior design of the house simple and avoid crevices or cracks where burning material can lodge.
Fit vents in walls, under floor and eaves with spark proof metal plates that can be easily fixed in place during a bushfire emergency.
Avoid decorative timberwork such as trellis, and lattice-work on exposed areas of the building.
Remember timber balconies and decks are also high danger areas for trapping burning debris and should be kept to a minimum.
Make sure you have any chimneys screened off to stop embers blowing down the chimney during the fire and entering the home.
In designing the home ensure the use of leafless guttering or if allowed by council install ground level rubble drain collectors.

Fire-prevention resources

Q. . What fire-prevention resources can I install in my home?

A: Homeowners in bushfire prone areas should equip their homes with fire resistant design features and consider installing rainwater collecting devices. Some shire councils require homes to install rainwater tanks with a special valve compatible with fire hoses.

Construction should rely heavily on fire-retardant materials and lightly on timber-based products. Look to install non-combustible materials, special sealants, gutter guards, spark guards and screen doors made of steel, aluminium and mesh.

Maintenance - Be sensible. Don't leave explosive chemicals around the house. Clean the gutters regularly. Remove any excess debris from the sub-floor area. Prune any tree branches over hanging the house.

Rising Damp

Q: My Federation freestanding brick cottage has rising damp. The most affected area is the wall outside. A concrete path about a metre wide runs the entire length of the house, and covers all of the ground between my house and the house next door. Could the path be contributing to the damp problem, even though it’s below the original damp course and the vents? Would removing the path help the soil and walls dry out, or would it just allow more rainwater to reach the walls?

A: If the path falls away from the house, the risk of damp is minimal, but if the path slopes towards your house it could certainly contribute to damp sub-floor conditions. You can lessen the risk by installing spoon drains near the edge of the paving where it abuts the house. Most Federation-style houses had inadequate sub-floor ventilation which could be the source of problems. Seek the advice of an architect. There are mechanical means of improving sub-floor ventilation in older houses. Let an architect show you how. Call Archicentre 1300 13 45 13.

Cracks in Plaster

Q: For 8 years we have lived in a weatherboard house situated on a slope where the front of the house is about six feet higher off the ground than the rear of the house. Long running hairline cracks have appeared in the plaster walls along the middle of the house and the front door jams. The cracks have become more apparent this last year. In the back bedroom the floor bounces a bit causing the window to shake. Could this be a sign of sub floor problems (stumps) and or drying of the soil (clay soil) or a combination of the two or perhaps some other reason?

A: An important indicator here would be the age of the property. If the house is more than 30 or 40 years old the problem is likely decay of timber stumps. However drying of soils can also cause shrinkage and cracking in internal walls. Remember any tree that is a tree’s length from the house will be drawing moisture from underneath the house and this can lead to cracking problems. An architect should inspect to advise you more fully.

Trees and Cracks

Q: We bought a new house two years ago. Very recently we have noticed cracks in the corners of the walls, window frames and one very long crack running vertically through the bricks in the garage. After reading your fact sheet "Cracking in brickwork", I think the problem may have something to do with the 20m high liquidamber tree on the nature strip which is about 5 metres from where the house starts. What is our next move? Should we get a house inspection to be sure? Assuming it is the tree (which I'm pretty sure can't be removed as it's on the nature strip) do you have a list of preferred tradesmen who can install root barriers, or is it possible to do it yourself? What about the 7 year building insurance to fix the problem?

A: Homeowners warranty insurance does not cover damage wrought by trees, only damage wrought by builders. Contact your local council and explain your situation. If in fact the damage was caused by trees on council land, councils have been known to react quickly, installing root barriers using the skills of their own contractors.

Home renovations

Q: We have a weatherboard home in Essendon and would like to know it's "type" to get an idea of the features that will suit when extending/renovating. We assume it was built in 1956 or just prior as records show it was first occupied in 1956. It's a small weatherboard, very plain. Where could we go for information on this era of house when extending and renovating?

A: The mid-50s were known as a period of austerity. There were material shortages for some time following the World War II. So it’s not surprising that there is very little in the way of period detail. For more information, you can try the public library or try Architext. The phone number is (03) 9650 3474.

Pole Home Design

Q: We are keen to move out of the city and would like to build a house. The area we are interested in has limited land available for building, and the blocks we have seen all have a steep slope. Many of the houses in the area are built on similar slopes and are various pole house designs. We like this type of house, however are unsure about the additional costs of building on a steep slope. The two blocks we have looked at are also zoned conservation (7B I think), and do not have complete driveway access or other services as yet. Is it possible for you to estimate an approximate price (per square meter I suppose) for building a pole house on a steeply sloping block?

A: Have a look at the Archicentre Cost Guide located at http://www.archicentre.com.au/renovation/ren_index.htm. It will give you a reasonable indication of building costs. With your situation, it sounds like access could be a problem. Consider having an architect come out assess your site and draw up a preliminary design concept. That way when you consult a pole house building specialist (who the architect can probably recommend), they have drawings to work from.

Building Permits

Q: We have a property that has an extremely poorly built 'lean-to' style extension at the back of the house. Are building permits required if we were to rebuild the extension and make it structurally sound, without changing the external dimensions? Or does it depend on how much rebuilding we do?

A: Yes! Building permits and at times planning permits are required for all alterations and Class 1 jobs (i.e. dwellings).

Stained Walls

Q: Our house is now 15 years old. Some of the walls are lined with pine boards, and treated with two coats of Cabot's Danish Oil. Over the years the boards have aged to a pleasant deeper brown shade. Our problem is that behind a few hanging pictures, the timber has retained a much lighter color. Is there anything that can be done, other than painting the walls, to return the wall to a uniform color?

A: If you want a uniform colour, there is quite a task ahead. Take an orbital sander and sand the walls back. Then apply the stain of your preference. Before long, you will have the consistent shade you desire.

Polished Boards

Q: Do you need to put anything under furniture with wheels to protect polished boards?

A: If you are shifting the furniture around take special care. Maybe slide a thin piece of cardboard under the wheels, or lift the furniture using your knees. If the wheels are scraping the floor, add a few carpet strips to keep the floor from stripping. If it happens to be pine, use caution. Pine flooring is soft and can be susceptible to stiletto heels and point loads from heavy furniture.

Shower Ceilings

Q: The ceiling paint above the shower area is peeling away, and mould is starting to appear in place of the paint. We use extractor fans, while we shower, but despite this, the problem doesn’t go away. How do I stop it?

A: You have a condensation problem. Try leaving the fans running for 5-10 minutes following a shower. For adequate ventilation, leave the door and window open. To return the walls to normal, wipe the walls clean, then apply a killer dose of exit mould. Visit your nearest paint supplier for advice on quality paint.

Patterned Ceilings

Q: We have a variety of different patterned ceilings throughout each room of our Edwardian House. We are about to undertake renovations and were wondering how to remove the matt finish cream paint from this beautiful feature. Will we really have to paint over the top and lose a little more of the sharpness of the patterns?

A: Wash it and paint over it with the colour of your choice. It’s unlikely the sharpness will be disrupted.

Guttering and downpipes

Q: Our 40-year-old house is due to have new guttering and downpipes soon. Cleaning has always been a problem for my husband as the terracotta roof tiles overhang the gutters making it difficult to get either his hand or a suitable tool in to clean properly. Can this problem be overcome in any way when we replace the gutters?

A: A gutter guard can prevent the onslaught of debris. This handy tool will reduce your gutter cleaning to an annual project. Ask your hardware store person for more information about this piece of equipment.

Mould on bedroom wall

Q: Can you suggest anything for mould on a bedroom wall? It has been treated over the years with white king and sugar soap but the mould keeps coming back. The room is well ventilated and has ducted heating. Also the air vents under the house have been checked and are clear.

A: Try exit mould. If that doesn’t kill it, we suggest a damp control specialist or a site visit from an Archicentre architect.

Soundproofing

Q. I live in a two storey house which has the potential of being converted into a duplex. One on top of the other. The two storeys are separated by wooden floor boards. What is the best way of insulating the two storeys so that noise doesn't penetrate the bottom without using concrete.

A: There is no easy way to achieve this. The most effective option would be to install thermal insulation batts, many of which contain acoustic properties. However, there is considerable labour involved in removing the floor or ceiling. A less-involved noise-reducer would be the addition of upstairs carpeting. Of course another layer of plaster would also improve density.

Installing ramps

Q. Would you please tell me the formula used for determining needed floorspace in relation to height for construction of a safe, internal ramp? For instance, how much floorspace would be necessary to descend 60cm.

A. In order to make an adequate descension, multiply the height (60 cm) by 14 and that will give you the length of the ramp required (8.4 metres). The minimum width between hand rails is 1,000 mm. A 50 mm clearance is also required between hand rail and wall. If the ramp is positioned at a doorway, the required landing will vary in accordance with the width of a door, the swing of the door and the angle of the approach. You will have to look that up in accordance with AS 1428.1 2001.

Concrete roof

Q. Is the cost of a suspended slab building more expensive than a conventional brick veneer home built on a slab. Is a concrete home with suspended slabs hotter or colder than other building materials, would it have to be air conditioned? I am referring to a split level or double storey structure? Can a suspended slab be used as a roof, if so is it more expensive than terra cotta tiles on timber frame?

A. The concrete roof is not a popular form, but it can be done. We would only suggest a suspended slab if you expect considerable foot traffic or want a roof garden. The suspended slab will be more expensive than a conventional slab or timber floor. The construction will demand a fine attention to detail. Assuming the suspended slab has been designed well and has good cross ventilation, the insulation qualities would be similar to a brick veneer structure. Consult an architect.

Garage on boundaries

Q. We are looking at building a brick and tile automatic garage onto our existing 1940's home. What is the minimum distance that our garage wall can be from our neighbour's fence? Is the garage roof edge taken into account at all? The neighbour's brick garage wall on our other side is actually on our fence line. I would assume that this isn't legal anymore. Am I right? We live in the Ryde, NSW area.

A. Given the opportunity, people will build garages on fence lines. Still legal in many parts. Get in contact with your local council and read current by-laws. It's likely that the eaves will have to stop at the boundary, although it is natural for people to install parapets and a box gutter.

Checking builder's credentials

Q. We want to replace some cheap spiral stairs with a straight staircase and have had one quote for $9,000 from a builder. It is a tricky job as there is not much space and we are not sure if we should use an architect or not. Can you tell me the costs involved with an architect and recommend someone who can give us another quote? The builder is charging us around $800 for insurance. Is he meant to pay for the insurance or are we? The quote sounds pricey.

A. We always encourage people to get competitive quotes from several builders. Quotes can vary sometimes from 50-60%. If you are curious what the builder's background is like, ask what organisation he has membership in, likely the Housing Industry Association or the Master Builders Association. Call them and ask what standing the builder has.

Q. We have purchased a 3 bedroom home on a large block (11 sq), with the view of adding a sizeable extension and renovating the interior. We have used a basic design program and created a working concept we are happy with. Three builders have delivered rough quotes on the job, ranging from $150,000 - $190,000. The extension is in the order of 11-12 squares. Two bedrooms, bathroom, toilet, laundry, family room, and patio out the back. The renovations inside being to convert an existing bedroom into Ensuite and WIR's. And also new kitchen. The one item we are unable to include on the plans is a double garage due to house position on the block, but this is not critical. What we are now considering, is, is it worthwhile continuing with extending the existing dwelling, or is it more economical to actually demolish the existing dwelling and start with a fresh site. Does the cost of completing the extension compare favourably with demolishing and starting afresh?

A. Sounds good. Current building costs fall between a fairly large gap, $1,200-2,000 per square metre. If builders are busy, then the quotes could soar. The bathroom, toilet, laundry and kitchen come at a premium. The builders gave you a reasonable quote. We always recommend at least six tenderers. It's amazing the variations you can get. If you want to make sure that the project is managed correctly and free of headaches, consult an architect. The architect could also make priceless suggestions about your drawings and could maybe even save you thousands in the design and construction process. Not to mention help you get approval in the planning stages. Good luck.

Damp flooring

Q. We have a downstairs storeroom next to the garage. The floor is concrete and I notice that frequently, if it has been wet outside, the concrete becomes damp. Can you suggest how to prevent it, as I would like to lay a nicer flooring over the concrete, but worry about mould and rot building up?

A: Garage floors, unlike a normal concrete slab, are not designed with a waterproofing membrane. Therefore a little moisture is common. A good choice of flooring would be ceramic or slate tiles, they tend to control moisture better. Avoid vinyl or timber flooring. Also to minimise excessive dampness, make sure that the block is draining properly.

Cracking

Q: Two and a half years ago, we had our house specially designed and built on screw piers, half on clay, half on fill. It was built during a very dry period, and 1 year later, cracking appeared. Two surveys showed the slab lifted by 30mm, and we were told to improve the site drainage, which we did. Cracks still exist and some doors have trouble closing. Should we be worried or just get them fixed.

A: It sounds like your situation is more an inconvenience than anything else. When a house is built on different foundations it is quite normal to get differential movement. A little extra structural reinforcement would have helped. None of the faults mentioned are of a disastrous nature. The improved site drainage should stabilise the clay soil and minimise any future movement. Once its stabilised, the gaps and cracks can be filled. Minor cracks will still appear but that is just a consequence of natural movement.

Asbestos

Q: I have a fibro investment property in West Pymble. It is currently insured for $151,000 and is about 170 sq m on a sloping block. I want to determine if I am under insured. Can you please recommend someone who I can talk with to determine this?

A: A quantity surveyor or valuer can assess how much your property is worth. However a cost will be involved. An insurance company may provide a value over the phone at no extra cost. As a rough guide in rebuilding, the basic building costs are $1,000-$1,200 square metre; a replacement value in order of $170,000-$204,000.

Cracking

Q: We own a double-brick single storey house, built around 1960 in the suburb of Ryde, NSW. In the last month or so, a jagged 4 mm crack has appeared around the corner of the house and outside under the window. We've been pulling up broken concrete during the past 6-8 months and replanting the area in lawn. Not until we got huge disposal bins, the concrete pieces had been stacked up in large piles next to the side of the house. Could we be responsible for the cracks?

A: The cracks are natural and present no structural threat. By merely removing the concrete and replanting, the water regime would have changed significantly, forcing movement in the structure. Wait 12-15 months for the soil to restabilize, then repair the cracks.

Fence regulations

Q: Are there any Australian design standards or minimum building regulations for building boundary brick/masonry fences which covers footings, brickwork and/or wrought iron inserts - particularly if the bottom 30% of the fence acts as a retaining wall for the front garden. Permit regulations will be handled by speaking to the local council. Advice/directions to the pertinent standards/regulations appreciated.

A: In most municipalities around the country, approval for front boundary fences generally consists of three factors: height, style and structural stability. The required height could be anywhere from 1.2 - 1.8 metres, although this can change depending on local council. Some councils have strict aesthetic values and this can limit your selection to wrought iron or picket fences, for instance. In terms of structural stability, the fence must be structurally stable and if the fence retains 600 mm of earth, it would have to be specially engineered. Contact your local council. They can assist you with more specifics.

Owner builders

Q: I am considering embarking on a substantial renovation. As budget is an issue (with all renovations I'm sure), we are intending to subcontract the work for which we will manage. While we have no experience in this field, we have many close relatives/friends that have considerable experience in this field. Can you please advise of the pros and cons of this approach and any pitfalls we should watch out for. Can you also advise of the going rate per square for renovations of an existing house and additions to the rear of the existing dwelling.

A: Pro: Using skilled friends is always better than a stranger Con: If there are any mistakes, you take all the risk and of course, there are no discounts on materials. Have a look at our cost guide at www.archicentre.com.au/renovation/ren_index.htm. It will give you an estimation of the kind of costs you could endure. You may want to consider an Archicentre Renovator Report. How it works is an architect will meet at your home and discuss in detail your concept and answer any additional questions about the design process. Within a few weeks of the initial meeting, the Architect will present you with concept drawings and cost estimates for your proposed renovation or new house design. You will be provided with clear directions on how to complete your building project in the best way.

Coordinating building project from overseas

Q: I am building some units in Thornbury and need to order my windows. Unfortunately I am currently overseas. Please explain to me why some windows have reveals and others don't and how that affects the brick coursing or the ordering of the window. I am thinking of having a combination of Aluminium sliding windows and aluminium awning shashes, with or without mouldings to window.

A: Be very careful here. The margin of error is quite large due to the myriad of details involved with fitting windows. A small blunder and the windows may not work or may have to be replaced. It would be extremely difficult to coordinate this project from overseas. The window reveal will vary depending on whether it is fitted to brick, brick veneer or timber. Add to this, a multitude of details with timber or aluminium. It is an extremely difficult may lead to problems. Consider using an architect to make sure that this is done correctly. Call Archicentre at 1300 13 45 13 and our customer representatives can help find an architect in your area to assist.

Stumps and sloping floorboards

Q: We inspected a weatherboard home last night in Pascoe Vale, Victoria. We noticed that the floorboards were a little uneven in various sections. We also inspected a place in Strathmore last week and that place needed serious work. At the time it felt as though you were walking downhill. Real Estate Agent has advised that the house was restumped in 1984 (Concrete stumps). On observation the stumps look ok, but we are uncertain why the floor is not completely level. Should the floor be perfectly straight or is it normal to have some unlevel sections? Also we noticed the roof was a little wavy in one particular section. Does the house sound structurally sound?

A: According to Archicentre pre-purchase inspections, 48% of Pascoe Vale homes have stump faults and 46% have a cracking problem. So be careful, obviously both could be costly problems. It appears that the restumpers may have took a shortcut in the stumps department. When the house was restumped, it should have been re-leveled. We suggest having a pre-purchase inspection with the architect.

Asbestos

Q: Some time ago, Archicentre inspected our 42 year old brick veneer home in North Balwyn and advised us that there was asbestos in our eves. On one side of our house we noticed yesterday that the eves are sagging by about a metre. Should we be concerned for our health?

A: Although the eaves may be sagging, the dangerous fibres are likely to be safely embedded into the sheet. However, if the roof is nearing the end of it's life, you will need to employ the services of a registered asbestos removal contractor to dismantle it. This will add about $3000 to the cost of roof replacement. It is very important that you don't walk on the roof. Old asbestos cement roofing is extremely brittle and many owners have fallen through.

Q. We have a garage (used as a workshop) which stands separate from the main house which has an asbestos roof. Long term plan (5-8yrs) is to demolish and rebuild our house. Should we go to the trouble and expense of removing the roof or leave it as is until we get to demolition stage? (The roof is not deteriorating at present)

A: Leave the roof. Provided the roof does not start deteriorating rapidly, there is no urgency. Render

Q. Our house is concrete render over the original weatherboard house. On one side the render is cracking/bulging & falling off. The render/stucco was originally sprayed onto chicken wire. Are there any new ways to treat & repair render?

A: It really depends on the quality of what's underneath. To recommend the best course of action, we really need to visit and assess the property.

Owner Building

Q: We are thinking of building a new home and would like to be owner builders. Does the architect assist in ensuring the tradesman get the dimensions and construction correct as per the plan? In addition is there some formulae we can use to ascertain the cost of the building once we have an idea of the size. Architect fees: Are these a negotiated up front fee or is it a % of the cost to lock up stage. Do the fees include supervision?

A: As owner builder, you have a total responsibility to ensure set-outs, dimensions and room sizes, all in accordance with the drawings. You can ask an architect to assist you, but primarily the architect's role is to act as the agent of the client, representing your best interest. Have a look at our cost guide at www.archicentre.com.au/renovation/ren_index.htm. It will give you an estimation of the kind of costs you might endure. Architect fees typically range from 9-15%, but that depends on what the architect charges and the complexity of the job. Up to the tendering stage, the architect's fee is between half or three-quarters of the fee. Our renovation report would be an excellent start for you. The Archicentre design service explores all your options, with care and sensitivity to your circumstances, lifestyle and budget. Call our service personnel, they will select an architect who is right for you. At your convenience, the architect will meet at your home or building site. The architect will discuss in detail your concept and answer any additional questions about the design process. Within a few weeks of the initial meeting, the Architect will present you with concept drawings and cost estimates for your proposed renovation.

Bouncy floors, flat roofs

Q: My wife and I are looking at purchasing a double fronted timber Edwardian home in Glen Iris. It has lots of character and is in a good area. We have never lived or owned a timber home and are concerned about its long-term durability (currently live in a brick veneer home). The whole place is carpeted and we would probably want to polish the underlying boards that feel a little suspect underfoot in some isolated areas, what are your thoughts? The property has also been extended and consists of a flat roof in the extended area, this I do not like, is it expensive to convert the flat roof to a pitched colourbond roof? The original section of the home consists of a pitched iron roof that has faded can this be fixed?

A: According to Archicentre Pre-purchase inspection reports, the number of stump faults detected in weatherboard homes is 51%, a significantly high figure. Probably best to have an architect look at the stumps.

To convert the roof is an expensive, labour-intensive job. Hard to estimate the actual cost without seeing the roof. If the pitched iron roof is in good condition, paint it.

Building costs

Q: I want to build a new home. How do I determine a budget figure for the house. Is there a $ rate per square meter to work out a cost? There area we want to build is in Port Stephens NSW. What aspect of building has the potential to blow out costs - eg type of materials, size, etc?

A. Have a look at our cost guide located at http://www.archicentre.com.au/renovation/ren_index.htm. It will give you a reasonable indication of building costs. The complexity of building work and the quality of finishes influence the cost. Consider using an architect to produce a preliminary design concept. The architect will provide you with clear directions on how to complete your building project in the best way. Following the Archicentre New Home Design, you can commission the architect to produce working drawings, or you can choose to do some of the building work yourself. Or you can choose to have your architect obtain competitive tenders, observe and report on construction, quality control, smooth-running and cost-control measures.

Construction type

Q: I require a determination of the use of an alternative exterior building construction. Originally the design utilised Blockwork with cement render and painted. The alternative in lieu of the above construction is now designed as Precast concrete with textured paint finish. Can you please issue me with a report outlining whether the alternative design is equal or potentially superior to that originally proposed?

A: Equal. The material might be slightly cheaper and a little less flexible if you intend to add windows in the future (you have to cut through the cement). But provided it's a straightforward design, there is nothing to worry about.

Creaky Floor

Q: The floor of my unit sounds very creaky at a few spots. Is it a stump problem? My unit is only 4 year old. Is it still covered under the structural warranty of the builder?

A: It could a number of things. Defining the source will be difficult without a proper site inspection. The creaking is more an irritant than a structural problem. Shrinkage in the joists might make the floor squeak as would trapped moisture. However these things happen, no matter what manufacturers promise. We suggest you perform a reconnaissance mission and analyse the sources we suggested. An architect's visit could quickly identify the problem.

Floorboard Gaps

Q: We have a 1920s weatherboard house that has been renovated but the original floorboards have gaps between them and cold air comes in from the underfloor space. We have polished floorboards and don't wish to put down carpet. What is the best method of insulation and how to install it? There is reasonable subfloor access.

A: Take advantage of the roomy crawl space underneath and apply sarking to the underside of the floor joists, then fill the gaps with insulation. It's like adding bulk insulation in the ceiling. The only difference is you may need to chicken wire to support it. The temperature will be much easier to control.

Roofing

Q: We have a 20-year-old home with a ColourBond roof that is in need of a clean. I have contacted numerous roofing companies to inquire if they clean steel roofing. Unfortunately all replies have been negative. Do you have any suggestions? I think lichen is the main problem on the roof.

A: It's a simple three-step process. Bleach kills lichen dead. Then spray it with a hose and sweep it off the roof.

Mould

Q: I have recently purchased a cement/concrete house with steel casement windows in the Box Hill area. I believe it is post-World War II and there are many in the area. The inside walls have a texture like little pimples. The windows are broken and rusty. The southern end of the house tends to develop mould on the inside wall. I intend to put in ducted heating in.

Could you please offer some advice on the following:
a. Can you dry sheet plaster straight over the cement? Or will that get mouldy too?
b. Are steel casement windows difficult to remove - as I would like to replace them with Colonial double hung windows (aluminium).

A: This sounds like one of the concrete-paneled, housing commission estates from the post-war era. The panels are 75mm thick and known to acquire high levels of condensation. First, hit that mould hard with Exit Mould and do it repeatedly. Next, batten the walls with timber studs or steel channels and cover with a 2.5 rating level of insulation and then sheet it with plasterboard. This will reduce the size of the room, but the mould will have met its match. We suggest you restore the casement windows. Take the rust off with a wire brush and apply an anti-rust paint. Reglaze the windows with a 6mm laminated glass which will provide security and improved thermal performance and outlast any newfangled system.

Flooring

Q: Our house was built in 1934, and we have removed the carpets and polished the tallowwood floors. As is common with floors of this age, there has been considerable shrinkage, with gaps between the boards. The floors are finished with polyurethane. The company that did the floor sanding advised us not to fill the gaps, as any subsequent movement could squeeze the filling out. Is there some type of wax product we could use to polish the floor to fill the gaps?

A: No. The advice is on the money. Sometimes you have to just love your charming, old house and all its imperfections.

Refinishing Concrete

Q: Our concrete front steps and verandah are discoloured, worn and chipped. It makes a very un-appealing entrance to the house. Is it possible to have the concrete "re-done" in some way, and how would we go about doing this?

A: To clean your front steps, first try using the power nozzle on your hose. You'll be surprised how much grit it can lift. The most reliable method is a high-pressure washer. It will power clean the steps thoroughly, and eliminate the build-up of moss and lichen that surface around the edges of the driveway. Pressure washers are available for hire from most rental agencies. If the grime is deep and ingrained, consider applying a mild mixture of spirits of salts (hydrochloric acid) or a 10% solution of ammonia. It's what brick layers use to clean the mortar from bricks. Remember to wear protective gloves and safety glasses when handling these harmful chemicals.

Asbestos

Q: I bought a late 1940s/early 1950s, fairly original weatherboard house ten months ago - and had an Archicentre inspection report to give the house the all clear - of course! In the past 6 months the bathroom walls have deteriorated. This does not worry me as I knew the bathroom needed work. The walls aren't tiled, but are covered in an indented plasterboard that looks like tiling. A large tear has occurred in the boarding near the shower, and has exposed netted brown fibres. I am worried that these fibres are asbestos. How can I confirm this?

A: In the 1950s, a compressed timber hardboard would have been used as an alternate to tiles. Number of these were cheap products, and some contained asbestos. The safest and smartest plan would be to consult an asbestos removalist.

Floating Floors

Q: Can you advise me of the best product to purchase to level Yellow Tongue prior to installing a floating floor?

A: Actually, floating floors have a reputation for concealing an uneven floor. A 5 mm foam rubber underlay is used to eliminate imperfections and should handle any lumps and bumps. Lumps should be sanded with an industrial sander and dips can be filled with a self-levelling compound. Flooring specialists would be able to assist you with specific brand types.

Using an Architect

Q: I'm intending to contract a builder to build my home in the outer reaches of Melbourne in the next few months. I'm also an software engineer and work daily with plans and specifications - some are good and many are bad. The bad ones almost always lead to much heartache, increased costs and the inevitable damage to relationships... So I'm amazed at the lack of detail many builders try to pass-off as building specifications. Many builders expect you to sign up several hundred thousand dollars on 2-3 page specification and a few pages of floor plan and some side elevations. Are there recognised standards for specifications and plans and should these be quoted in the contract? If not, what constitutes a reasonable set of plans? It is very obvious that there must be strong upfront agreement (not just the shape of the structure but the quality as well) and strong protection if [or when] a dispute arises. Finally are there independent bodies around that check the plans of domestic building contracts?

A: We can sympathise with your displeasure. You are not the first person to approach us with similar questions. The standard of "documentation" or plans required by building approval (councils) is generally quite minimal and would not form the basis for adequate contract documentation or give you adequate protection in the building contract. With that said, Archicentre highly recommends using an architect because an architect's plans exhaustively detail every aspect of the building process. An architect also adds a level of economy and innovation that is missing from so many conventional plans. But many people are unwilling to spend the money for precise architectural plans, which represents only 5-6% of the building contract. At 10 percent, the architect can manage every phase of building project.

Stumping

Q: In general terms, how much does re stumping a single frontage Victorian cost?

A: To replace a concrete stump, the average is $43-65 in Melbourne and $165-280 in Brisbane. For a 150 square metre house with 80-90 stumps, it costs $3,650-6200 in Melbourne and $10,000 –12,250 in Brisbane. For a brick veneer house with 60 stumps the price is $3,000-4,400 in Melbourne. For a solid brick house with approximately 40 stumps the price is $2,450 – 3,300.

Traffic noise

Q: We are looking at a house on a busy road. If we buy it, is there any way to control the traffic noise?

A: Physical barriers like fences are effective in reducing the transmission of sound. A solid front fence will also provide an element of privacy away from the busy road. Although a fence is a useful defence, the main entry point for noise is through windows. The glass is probably only 3mm thick, so if you were to have it glazed with 7mm thick glass it will make a substantial difference. This is less expensive and an adequate substitute for double glazing. Other permeable areas include external vents and poorly fitting doors and window frames. Ensure that these are all sealed up. Properly treated, houses on busy roads can be made quite comfortable.

Renovations

Q: We have an old home on a rural block that's had several additions over the years. So many in fact, the home has lost some character. Is it possible to renovate it ourselves, obtain a more cohesive style, and remain within budget?

A: It's not unusual for owner builders or tradespeople to add unsympathetic additions to houses. Many lack the design experience or the funds to realise an ambitious project. A series of extensions over time, added as needs change - rather than a clear, long-term vision - is likely to disrupt the form of the house. Money plays an obvious role in deciding what options are available, but even a modest budget used creatively can go a long way to unifying a home's shape. For instance, by adjusting a roofline at odds with itself, you not only improve the external appearance, but also internally create harmony in the design. The best solution is to have an architect make an inspection of your home and draw plans and a feasibility study as to what can be achieved within a certain budget. The Archicentre home renovations report is an option. They will also be able to recommend independent work that you can do to help stretch your budget further.

Cracking

Q: I purchased a house in Balmain three years ago and lately, something new seems to go wrong with it everyday. I believe an extension the previous owners added 5 years ago might be the source of the problems. I find severe cracking, distorted windows, sinking stumps and an uneven floor. Who can help?

A: As a homebuyer, you are entitled to a domestic contracts insurance warranty. Since 1996, there has been some confusion in the marketplace. Before then, owner builders only needed insurance if they were building an entire house. The law was amended in 1996 to include single renovations. This amendment protects the buyer from any unscrupulous building work for six and a half years following the completion of the work. In your situation, check the local council to see if a building permit was issued to the previous owner. Under law, owner builders must have their homes professionally inspected if they want to sell. If not, they could face or a $10,000 fine or the cancellation of the signed contract. Owner builders must provide a copy of the report along with the section 32 for prospective purchasers to inspect. They are also required to take out an owner-builder insurance package. This will cover the home buyer on defects. Archicentre architects carry out these reports.

Noise

Q: We can hear the upstairs toilet flush from our living area downstairs. How do we fix this?

A: The water noises are transmitted through the structure and the pipes. Normally, the WC pans and pipes would be insulated when they interact with - or penetrate - the floor and walls. If the waste pipes are exposed under the floor you will have to box them in and fully insulate. Good planning would have enclosed the pipes in vertical and horizontal ducts. If the space below the toilet is a living area you may have to put in a bulkhead (a section of dropped ceiling) packed with insulation to absorb the noise. It could be that your toilet pipe is too loosely installed and vibrates after each use - especially if the pipe is in contact with the framing of the ceiling below. When you are planning a two storey house layout, it is much better to locate one wet area above another so that bathrooms are not above habitable rooms. This is especially important in multi-residential buildings, though we have often been witness to this important design matter being ignored.

Driveway stains

Q: I recently bought a house with a dark brown concrete driveway. It hasn't been occupied in awhile and it's very dirty. How can I clean it?

A: It sounds like the builder of your driveway has used an additive that turned it brown. This "aesthetic" treatment was typically used to make green concrete a substitute for a front lawn. To clean your driveway, first try using the power nozzle on your hose. You'll be surprised how much dirt it can lift. The most reliable method is to hire a high-pressure washer. It will power clean the area thoroughly, and eliminate the build-up of moss and lichen, that surface around the edges of the driveway. Pressure washers are available for hire from most rental agencies. If the dirt is deep and ingrained, consider applying a mild mixture of spirits of salts (hydrochloric acid) or a 10% solution of ammonia. It's what brick layers use to clean the mortar from bricks. Remember to wear protective gloves and safety glasses when handling these harmful chemicals.

Overshadowing

Q: I have a single-storey house in outer Sydney and my neighbour proposes to add a second storey that falls on my boundary. They have produced drawings and diagrams showing how the shadow will not effect my property, but I do not trust the accuracy of these diagrams. I am worried that the sun will be obscured from my back area. At present it is a very sunny place and used a lot for barbeques and entertaining. What should I do?

A: You should seek independent professional advice to ascertain the impact of this proposed development on your property. Through Archicentre, an architect can visit your property and inspect the drawings of the proposal. The architect can produce shadow diagrams at different times of the day to demonstrate how your back area will be shaded in consequence of the development. Additionally, the report will cover aspects like the loss of privacy, and the impact on the streetscape. This information will provide you with the evidence needed to lodge an effective complaint with the local council.

Renovations

Q: We are interested in buying and renovating a home in Fremantle. We would like to enlarge the lounge area by removing a sliding door and wall. Are there any problems with this?

A: To remove the whole wall you will need to replace it with a beam. If the house is timber framed, then timber will work best. The size of the beam will depend on the span and load to be carried. Check in the ceiling space for two things: does the wall carry the weight of the ceiling joists? And secondly, are there any struts off this wall supporting the roof? If the wall bracing is removed, the structure will be weakened. You will need the advice of a local architect and possibly an engineer or qualified builder. Archicentre can arrange for an architect to assess your proposed lounge extension and guide you as to what is safe and practical.

Roofing

Q: We have been checking the roof on our Edwardian period house in Perth and can see that areas of the terra-cotta roof tiling appear to have been replaced. Our last check revealed some rather tattered building-paper underlay. Should we replace this?

A: The underlay you refer to is called sarking and it is designed to collect and run off storm water that may penetrate through minor fissures or openings in the roofing material. The membrane is manufactured with a water-resistant substance made from petroleum, called bitumen. This style of sarking was introduced in the 1950s, so evidently your Edwardian home has been re-roofed at some stage. Consider replacing the remnant material with a modern type of sarking that includes a reflective aluminium foil, combining water-resistance with insulation. If you are thinking of doing the work yourself, care must be taken to ensure that each succeeding sarking sheet overlaps on the downward or shedding slope. It might be advisable to get a roofing contractor in, since correct positioning of sarking requires the removal and repairing of battens and the removal and relaying of tile. Older style tiles have to be held in place with wire ties secured around roof battens, while more modern tiles are held in place with nails. Due to the corrosive nature of Perth coastal air, it is essential, when retying tiles that corrosion resistant materials - not steel - are used for the long-term maintenance of roofs. The whole process is very labour intensive and care is asked to ensure tiles are correctly placed and fixed to resist high winds and storms. When sarking became popular some builders reduced the roof pitch, effectively making sarking the primary roof. The tiles served only as a preliminary weather barrier. A tiled roof ought not to be pitched less than 22.5 degrees. Re-pitching a roof typically costs over $10,000 and that's after recycling the tiles. Labour would make up between 60 and 70 per cent of costs. Finally, have you noticed any telltale ceiling stains? This will tell you if you have caught the problem in time and how bad it is. This is especially important at this time of year.

Glass bricks

Q: Just how strong are glass bricks? My husband and I are building an extension that was recently passed by council, and he has this idea that we could have three walls entirely made out of glass bricks - including the floor. Apart from looking radical, I suspect practical problems. What do you advise?

A: Glass bricks are actually very strong - that's why fibreglass is used to reinforce boats. Glass bricks are equivalent to ordinary bricks. The safety aspect depends on detailing and the stiffening of the wall. Glass bricks are laid one on top of the other (called laid stack bond) and not overlaid as in ordinary brick, so joint reinforcement is necessary. Stiffen the walls by running them into cross walls, using steel piers or even buttresses. The architectural design of the building is essential and you'd need to be familiar with how glass bricks behave. Waterproofing is also important. This is not a job for an amateur. Glass bricks used in floors are typically supported by a square steel grid - you'll see this in footpaths near pubs. They have been used as basement lighting for years. They are aesthetically pleasing if you have a room below and you want to let more light in. This effect is trendy in restaurants. Glass bricks in an exterior wall close to a boundary may present a fire risk, an issue covered in local council law and the Building Code of Australia.

Townhouses

Q: We are considering buying a brand new town house in the Camberwell/ Surrey Hill area. What sort of design and building pitfalls should we be wary of when it comes to many of the new town house developments? Also, what sort of guarantees do we have against building faults, say, five years down the track?

A: As the new owner of a property, you are entitled to a 6½ year guarantee which is mandatory on all new houses. Townhouses have a few pitfalls. In terms of acting energy-conscious, the Colonial townhouses misbehave. They have tiny windows and the eaves are virtually non-existent. Consequently, they struggle to enable sunlight and shading can be an exercise in futility. Noise transmission should be considered, especially since most townhouses are built near busy roads. This can be overcome with thicker windows, we recommend 7mm. Most townhouses lack an outdoor courtyard or garden. So if you like entertaining guests, make sure the space suits your capacious desires. The construction materials generally range from brick veneer to timber framing. They are structurally solid although sometimes the quality of finishes are trouble-plagued. Another thing, building surveyors don't check for quality, they only check for compliance to building regulations. On the other hand, an Archicentre architect can give skilled inspection advice.

Flooring

Q: I moved into a brick veneer house with tongue and groove pine flooring this winter. At first, the floor didn't squeak at all. Then summer arrives and suddenly the floor squeaks all the time. I find this problem irritating and I want it to stop.

A: Don't panic, most timber floors carry these traits. In winter they like to hibernate and in summer, with the high temperatures and humidity, they tend to vocalise a bit. Try to get under the floor and glue the two squeaking boards together along the bottom. This will cease the independent movement of the floorboards and should reduce the high-pitched noises.

Flooding

Q: I am thinking of buying a house in an area prone to floods every 100 years, according to the sale contract. Is this serious? We want to renovate the back of the house. Will it be more expensive than usual?

A: Of course you can renovate. But it is serious. First, find out two things: the level of your existing house and the 100 year-flood level. This will give you the necessary building height. Local councils have these records. The extra expense comes from the extra building materials needed to build above flood levels. Like stilts, for instance. Building on the reactive soil of a floodplain requires smart engineering. This will also be an extra cost. Floods like any elemental force can be totally unpredictable. A 100 year- flood is purely an estimation. realistically, if you renovate above flood level, the odds are pretty good that you will spend many years safely in that home.

Planning restrictions - fencing

Q: We want to build a high front fence on our property. However, we live in the City of Port Phillip and have been warned about certain planning restrictions - like the 50 per cent transparency rule. Is this an architect-related issue? What sort of costs would we be up for?

A: High-density cities like Port Phillip seem to have high and mighty restrictions when it comes to high front fences, among other things. They want to keep the streetscape pure and they have a point. If everyone choosed to build high brick fences, pretty soon the streetscape would look like a canyon. You'll find a painted picket fence satisfies all parties. The costs start at a $100 a metre. Before you build anything taller than a metre, check with your local council, planning changes monthly and it doesn't get any easier.

Renovation

Q: We recently bought a Californian Bungalow with an area around back suitable for a large family room/kitchen extension. Unfortunately, this area faces Southwest, opposite the afternoon sun. How can we get more sunlight without resorting to something too extreme or contemporary - we would like to stay true to the Bungalow style?

A: If your block faces the hot afternoon sun, you can admit Northern light through an opening in the roof or ceiling. Skylights naturally serve this function. And there are a number of suitable choices out there. Traditional light wells - basically, a large opening in the ceiling for light and heat to travel - have aged badly, and today get outperformed by new and more efficient technology. A current favourite is a clear dome fixture with a metal tube that runs from the roof space to the ceiling. This light works as a thermal barrier and transmits light superbly. It looks no different than a standard light fixture, except it always appears to be on during the day, and sometimes at night under the moon. They are easy to maintain and cost around $500. Another good option are the clear or opaque plastic skylights that can be built into the roof. They cost the same as the dome shape but are less protrusive. A clerestorey angled window would compliment your house and bring it plenty of sunlight. This style introduces light between two separate roof levels. This is achieved if the rear family room roof was designed at a pitch higher than the existing roof. This way, the opening in the roof will capture the Northeast sun during breakfast. From an architectural perspective, clerestorey windows can be integrated smoothly with the Californian Bungalow style. But don't underestimate your current position. A southerly outlook keeps things cool in the summer, and with the sun shining from behind you - the garden flowers will look especially colourful.

Asbestos

Q: We are looking at buying a house with a fibro roof. Is there any danger in that?

A: Your roof contains asbestos. But as long as the roof is in good order the dangerous fibres will be bonded safely into the sheet. However, if the roof is nearing the end of it's life, you will need to employ the services of a registered asbestos removal contractor to dismantle it. This will add about $3000 to the cost of roof replacement. It is very important that you don't walk on the roof. Old asbestos cement roofing is extremely brittle and many owners have fallen through.

Warehouse shell

Q: My partner and I are considering buying a warehouse shell in Collingwood with the hope of turning it into a home/office. Are there any particular issues that we need to be aware of when it comes to buying warehouses as opposed to more traditional styles of residential accommodation. The warehouse we are currently considering has basic kitchen and bathroom facilities, although these would need a major facelift.

A: The obvious advantage of buying a warehouse shell over a residential apartment is the price: it's cheaper. However, an apartment usually contains standard fixtures and requisites in the sale price. With a warehouse shell, you have to do all this yourelf. So start by getting a satisfactory number of quotes. This will establish whether you can afford the desired renovation, because although the initial price may give you an edge, there is still significant fitting-out to do. According to Archicentre pre-purchase inspections, Collingwood properties operate in the red zone, so be cautious. Damp has been detected in 60% of its residences, while cracking exists in 65%. These areas are critical for first-time buyers. If they aren't spotted early and rectified, they can do unpleasant things to your budget. Archicentre architects know how to spot these problems. Also check that the wall and ceiling construction has adequate sound-proofing facilities. The standard should be spelled out in the relevant town-planning documents. This is important because some building sites retain the sights and sounds of being "under construction" long after residents have settled in. So a sound-proof wall could be necessary to shield the noise of loud power equipment. In better news, warehouse conversions have a peculiar talent of understating and overwhelming, in equal measure. The open-plan look with minimal furnishings, high ceilings and polished timber floors defend this theory, and add to the whole avant-garde appeal. It's also why warehouses comfortably masquerade as artist's studios, and you can see why. Stylish warehouse apartments have this cool and expansive environment that would seem perfect to live in and ideal for inspiring creative expression.