Home Buyers / Home Owners

Home Builders & Renovators - Ask a Question

Further Questions and Answers

Structural

Q: To knock out interior walls for the purposes of renovation do I need Council Approval? And who can tell me whether or not the interior walls are structural?

A: Yes, you will need council approval, which is required for any construction valued at more than $5,000. An architect can tell you if the walls are structural, in addition to helping you go about your renovation in the best, most economical way possible.

Brighten interior

Q: The actual house is quite dark and shaded. How can you brighten up even the smallest of rooms and make them look bigger at the same time?

A: The quickest and most economical way to brighten a room is with brighter colours. The best way and it's a little more expensive than paint is by installing a sky-light. There are plenty of companies in the yellow pages that can assist you. The third way and most obvious is adding windows. Of course if there is no external wall, this is impossible, but you probably already knew that. The best way to make a room seem larger is with careful placement of mirrors and maybe use smaller furniture.

Winter heating

Q: I have a brick wall in one room that is always cold, even when the heater is going. This creates a cold spot in the room where you can sit with the wall to one side of you and feel the cold on that side and be warm on the other. I'd like to cover the brick wall to help with the warmth of the room. The wall is double brick, the other side being the inside wall of the unit next door.

A: The heater is probably not effective enough. Is it fan assisted? A radiant fireplace is not terribly effective either. It sounds like it could be the positioning of the windows. Maybe need fan to bring heat down from ceiling if you have high ceilings. The wall couldn't be radiating cold it could be just drawn to the windows where it's coldest. Is there a draft due to the location of the windows? Try curtaining the windows with heavy drapes.

Sprucing up garden

Q: Would like some different ideas of what to do with a small courtyard of approx 2m by 5-6m. like tropical plants and enjoy entertaining

A: Tall, skinny plants work wonders in small areas. Birds of Paradise immediately comes to mind because they are colourful and exotic, but check with your local nursery about maintenance and suitability. Have a look at magazines too for some good ideas. Cut out and keep scraps. There are tables and chairs that are suitable for any type outdoor area. Large furniture chains would be worth a look.

Efflorescence

Q: Is salt damp different to efflorescence. What can be done about salt damp?

A: Efflorescence is evidence of salt damp in the form of crystals. What can be done? It is wise to remove that plaster to a height of about 300mm above the affected area, but it's also wise to wait several weeks - perhaps as long as three months between the damp problem and replacing the plaster. This time period will allow the rising damp moisture to evaporate off the bricks, draw the undesirable salts into the plaster layer and thus enable that salt to be removed from the plaster. Hope this helps.

Kid's Bedroom

Q: What can I do to my 13 year old daughters bedroom with all her stuff (TV, Xbox, cod player, draws and single bed)?

A: Not an unusual complaint, this. She's probably struggling with a place to put everything and a quick inspection of her clean bedroom will probably find most of her things stuffed under the bed (Of course, I'm guessing here). What she needs is ample shelving. The more stuff you can conceal behind cabinet doors the better. If you are not prepared to get a proper cabinet done, then have a look at Freedom or Ikea for options, for which there will be many. Even have a look at the Salvation Army.

Kitchen Renovation

Q: We are currently renovating a Farm house which is a transportable and have a very tiny kitchen. We are needing help on the layout. The kitchen is only 2m14 wide and not much longer! Is there any way that you can help us?

A: That is tiny! For functional brilliance, remember two factors when planning kitchen spaces:
1. Preparing and cooking: Provide bench space beside cook top and sink. The refrigerator, cook top and sink should fit within a compact triangle.
2. Cleaning and storing: Place drawers near the sink for easy storage. Hope this helps.

Water-wise Plants

Q: What are the best water wise plants?

A: Australian native plants are some of the most water wise in the world. The great survivors of the outback. Cactus type plants that survive easy in dry deserts. Visit your local nursery; they'll be helpful in presenting a range of these plants.

Outdoor garden

Q: We have a small area which is a long rectangular shape and want to do something that looks neat, tidy and low maintained, what can we do? Our dog has to live in the area too.

A: Sounds ideal for a cricket pitch. Maybe plant some trees along the side that do not require a whole heap of maintenance. A good balance of lawn and paving could also make quite a visual difference. Will it be an area for entertainment? If so, decking is essential. There are so many options really. A pergola, a barbeque, a vegetable garden (although that will require some maintenance). Have a look at some gardening magazines. That will inspire your thinking.

Furnishing

Q: I have an L Shaped lounge room which I am finding very hard to furnish and have it look comfortable/modern and promote conversation. As you walk into the lounge room there is a large Bay window on your right with about a metre and half of wall on either side of the window, the shape contains the dining room area. I have no idea what size lounge that will fit in, how to set it out and where to out the TV what type of unit etc. I think that I will have to get a fair amount of new furniture but would like a few ideas on how I should set it out. Should I make a feature of the Bay window? Can you help with ideas at all?

A: This is a tricky question. It's unfortunate that an L-Shape is so incompatible with the bay window arrangement because both items independent of each other - are lovely. Definitely make a feature of the bay window - consider yourself lucky to have one. This is a very difficult question to answer without a site visit. Your best bet: Draw your room to scale and cut our furniture shapes and then move them around like a puzzle.

Renovating

Q: What budget and design ideas would suit a kitchen/family area/laundry upgrade to a home 30 odd years old with quite a bit of dark brown feature brickwork internally at present.

A: A coat of paint is probably the least expensive way to revive your interior. Colours should be neutral, elegant and if you have trouble capturing much daylight, a skylight or a lighter colour could help. For a flashy result, apply a cement-based paint for a nice textured finish. For excellent interior guidance, a decorator or an architect is ideal for making great value judgements on planning and design.

Low-maintenance gardens

Q: G'day, we have bought a brand new home in Tumut NSW where the weather is extreme, very hot in summer very cold in winter! We would like some ideas as to what to plant to make low maintenance, waterwise gardens for front and backyards. We were thinking natives for the back and neat structured beds for the front. The front yard gets morning sun. Any help you can give us would be very much appreciated.

A: Yes the catchcry for many people these days is a low-maintenance garden, not only people living in hot places, but those too busy to be troubled. Australian native plants are the true survivors of the outback can handle extreme temperatures and can be obtained from most nurseries. The cactus of course being the ultimate in low-maintenance garden plants. Nursery specialists can recommend more bush-like vegetation that survives in wicked climates.

Chimney Cracks

Q. We have just moved into our newly built home. We have a gas-log fireplace with a plastered brick chimney. The chimney has cracked at the same level on either side of the fireplace and we have traced the cause to the heating and consequent expanding of the steel lintel above the fireplace insert. It has been suggested that we pack the space between the top of the firebox and the lintel with insulation. Fibreglass batts were suggested, but I am very reluctant to use this material in a place where fibres are likely to enter our home. Could you please recommend a more environmentally safe alternative to the fibreglass batts. We would need something which would not melt or catch fire.

A. Try using a mineral wool, an insulated fibrous material made from molten rock. You will be pleased to learn that it is environmentally friendly and anti-flammable. That would be the best option. A few other ideas include pressure-packed fire retardant foams or packing the chimney with fibre cement. These choices are available from most hardware stores. If you are still concerned about the safety aspects of your chimney call Archicentre for an architect's advice report,
1300 13 45 13.

Kitchen Renovation

Q. We are DIY renovating our 40 year old kitchen. We have pulled up the vinyl floor coverings. We would like your pro's and con's on what to do regarding vinyl, cork tiles, etc. we are vaguely thinking of polished boards.

A. The cheapest option would be a vinyl floor covering, but be forewarned, it doesn't take long for this option to start looking tacky and artificial. Provided the floor is in good order, consider polishing the boards, it's attractive, plus it adds great value. Floorboards tend to lose heat, a disadvantage that cork flooring capitilises on. Cork is popular with kitchens because it's comfortable, warm and a delicate handler when it comes to breakables.

Termites

Q. Can termites enter a house from a tree overhanging and touching the roof and wall? How likely is this?

A. It's unlikely. Termites like to conduct their insidious crimes against timber in private. They prefer to do business undisturbed, even the open air would probably spoil their appetite. They could have formed an underground highway from the tree to the house. It's worth investigating. Consider having an architect come out and assess the situation. If you are absolutely sure termites have invaded your premises, contact a pest controller immediately.

Architects' fees

Q. We may have a possible dispute over fees with an architect - at what stage can we sever the relationship and keep the plans; or are they always the property of the architect? Is there any right of recourse where we believe the architect's fees to be excessive? Perhaps an industry review body we could go to?

A. The architect always retains copyright over the drawings, but the client earns the right to use the drawings provided they are paid for and used on the project they were designed for. If you think the fees are excessive, it is important that you revisit the architect's original fee schedule. This would be presented as part of the client/architect agreement. The Royal Australian Institute of Architects has a fees dispute service if there are additional frustrations.

Buying a weatherboard home

Q. We are currently looking at houses to buy, especially in the Blackburn area, which is predominantly weatherboard. We have tried to find some realistic comparisons of "running costs" for weatherboards versus brick and brick veneer houses but have been unable to find any. Are weatherboards so much more time consuming and costly and should they be avoided, especially for homeowners who are not very handy work oriented? We love the look and charm of a weatherboard but are concerned about the time and cost trade-off.

A. In terms of low maintenance and high renovation potential, the brick veneer wins every time. Unlike weatherboard homes which require painting every five to ten years, the façade of a brick veneer requires minimal upkeep. The brick veneer's timber frame is another plus, as walls can be knocked down and re-built with reasonable damage to the pocketbook. A solid brick home is a completely different story. To repair internal cracking in a solid brick home can be a significant challenge and expense. So imagine trying to renovate? If you are looking to purchase any of these homes irrespective of type make sure you know what you are buying. Get an Archicentre pre-purchase inspection. For further advice on costs, check out the Archicentre Cost Guide at www.archicentre.com.au.

Retaining Wall

Q. We are looking to build a low retaining wall (height less than 1m). Ideally, we would like to use recycled rail sleeper, but have found these to have a short life time for in ground use in the Dandenong Ranges where we live due to very wet soil conditions and all manner of boring insects.

Under frequently wet soil conditions, is there any point in considering treated pine sleepers for retaining walls, or is the only feasible option to turn to rock, concrete or something similar?

A: Your instincts are absolutely right on the money. Due to the moisture and soil conditions, not to mention the proliferation of termites, it is worthwhile looking for a more permanent retaining wall solution such as concrete or timber. Treated pine has a limited life under wet conditions and for a long-term answer and good resistance to hydrostatic pressure, a properly designed concrete retaining wall is the best option. We recommend that you design it with the advice of an engineer.

Architectural Columns

Q: I am trying to locate two columns to match one on my veranda of my 1928 Californian Bungalow. Do you have any ideas where I might find one or who could make two for me?

A: In today's marketplace, a demand exists for even the most obscure niche item. If there are laundromats for dogs (and there is), you will no doubt find a company who has the column for a 1928 Californian Bungalow you're looking for. Have a look in the Yellow Pages under Building Restoration Services and Supplies. If one of the traders under this listing are not able to help find your column than they should know someone who will. Also visit a wrecker's yard for home housing, here you're destined to find a few worthwhile surprises.

Squeaky Floorboards

Q. The floorboards in the hallway of our five-year-old unit are starting to squeak quite badly. It has been getting progressively more noticeable over time and just seems to affect this heavier "traffic" area. Is it just a matter of pulling up the carpet (wall to wall) and hammering in the nails or is it something more serious?

A: It could be a number of things. Defining the source will be difficult without a proper site inspection. The creaking is more an irritant than a structural problem. Shrinkage in the joists might make the floor squeak as would trapped moisture. However these things happen, no matter what manufacturers promise. We suggest you perform a reconnaissance mission and analyse the sources we suggested. An architect's visit could quickly identify the problem.

Ceramic Washers

Q. Our renovated bathroom has new taps with ceramic washers. While the taps at the basin and bath operate as you would expect, the shower taps do not allow for any smooth micro adjustment after being turned on. This makes the mixing of hot and cold very difficult. Can you suggest any reasons and remedies for this?

A. Your domestic dilemma is echoed across the world, no doubt. To function in a normal society, one must achieve a nice balanced flow between the hot and cold taps. It could be the difference between a blissful morning and a disastrous one. Traditionally, taps with ceramic washers have a cruder adjustment level than taps with rubber washers. While this may go unnoticed in the sink, or even the bath, it becomes glaringly obvious in the shower, where subtle adjustments in temperature become critical. Try discussing your situation with the manufacturer. They will likely have a cheap solution for you. In the future, make sure you get to know your product before buying it.

Rising Damp

Q. A visiting handyman recently told me that I have rising damp in one of my rooms. He thought it unusual, as I live in a 2nd storey flat. What sort of tradesperson should I contact to confirm and which tradespeople fix this sort of thing.

A: Its not rising damp; you have what is known in the industry as penetrating damp. The odds of rising damp creeping up to a second storey is not impossible, but it is unlikely. What may have happened is some debris has been trapped in the wall cavity, cutting off ventilation and increasing the moisture build-up, and eventually penetrating the internal plasterboard. Another possibility is a downpipe broke outside and the water has slowly seeped through. Consult an architect for an informed judgement on your situation.

Flooring

Q: We bought a brand new home 12 months ago. We have noticed with alarm many gaps appearing between the parquetry. Is it due to not enough sealant, sunlight or structural fault?

A: If the parquetry had not been dried to 15% moisture content before it was installed, then the floorboards will shrink quite dramatically. The gaps can easily be filled with a silicon sealant, available from any hardware store.

Plaster Walls

Q: We have recently bought a Victorian terrace with original lathen plaster walls. The house has already been restumped and I think the plaster must have cracked. The previous owner has done a dodgy touch up that is lumpy, uneven and obvious. The walls are 90 per cent perfect despite the few obvious unsightly repairs. Can poor repairs on lathen plaster be redone? Is this a job for a professional plasterer? Should we start again with completely new plaster walls?

A: Don’t be discouraged, there are countless tradespeople out there, who can restore that lumpy, touch-up back to its original integrity.
A few options exist.
A very resilient, modern technique replaces the rotted timber laths and rusty nails with a vertical strip of expanded metal.
Another option is plasterboard, however purists would reject this as a non-authentic restoration. Both look quite similar. It’s up to you.

Stucco and Asbestos

Q: We recently purchased a small 50-year-old worker's cottage in Brisbane. The back wall is weatherboard, but the side and front walls are apparently "stucco". We have been told that this appears to have been put on in sheets over the top of the original weatherboard.

We would like to renovate the front of the house, returning to the original weatherboards. Are these stucco panels usually difficult and expensive to remove? Also we are told that as asbestos is involved, there may be high costs associated with the disposal as well as the need for special protective clothing. What information can you give us?

A: As stucco is often nailed into position, it would not be technically difficult to remove. But If the panels were added prior to the early 1980s, they would contain asbestos, and not only require protective clothing for removal, but a special permit from the council. It is highly likely that the weatherboard could be in poor condition so you may anticipate an added cost of re-lining of the weatherboard walls. Have a look in the Yellow Pages for a list of asbestos removalists.

Ceiling Paint

Q: Is there a particular brand of ceiling paint that I can use that adheres better without lifting off, which combines a anti-mould/anti-fungal paint specific for "steamy" wet areas.

A: Have a chat to a major manufacturer or obtain one of their technical information sheets. They are likely to inform you that the key to a quality paint job is good preparation. This might include cleaning (especially if it’s in the kitchen where grease lingers), sealing and two finishing coats of acrylic.

An Extension

Q: We are interested in buying a home that looks as if it had an extension done about five years ago. The extension is in quite good order but we wonder if we should request documentation showing that the extension was done with council approval? What is the law in this regard?

A: If the building work was completed less than 6½ years ago, then the builder is responsible. Anything over 6 ½ years and you are responsible. If you have any suspicions it’s best to take it up now before your warranty expires. Contact your local council, they will have all the relevant documentation. The legislation was created under the Building Control Act of 1993, which protects homeowners from inheriting the shoddy building work of others.

Renovating an Edwardian terrace

Q: We are thinking of renovating our single-storey home which shares a common wall and roof space with another Edwardian brick terrace. If we want to add on another second storey is the fact that we will be altering our side of the roof likely to create problems for our neighbours and make the renovation difficult?

A: This will not be easy for you. It might even be impossible. Now more than ever, councils are looking after Melbourne’s historical interest in residential areas. To maintain the integrity of the streetscape is paramount in the eyes of city councils. The addition you have suggested is sure to collide with planning authorities. If you are still determined you will need guarantees from engineers, surveyors, townplanners and that is just the beginning.

Ceiling insulation

Q: We have an old farmhouse in rural Victoria. We have discovered that it does not have ceiling insulation!! What is the best sort to install? Is there a government subsidy available? Should we do it ourselves or employ a contractor?

A: A wide range of products exist and they all have strengths and weaknesses, both in terms of performance and price. For instance, one product is made of wool, literally off a sheep's back, but insects like it. Our highest recommendation is insulation that has a rating of at least 2.5. There is no subsidy available. When installing the batts, make sure to wear a mask. The fibreglass is not carcinogenic, but it can induce nausea.

Termites

Q: I am just enquiring about the best way to go about a termite problem we have. We purchased our house (Mooroolbark, Vic) about 15 months ago and discovered termites in the wall a few weeks later. We had it treated by a "Termite specialist" (so he says) and were given a 10 year guarantee on treatment of white ants. However, we discovered evidence of termites 2 and a half months ago and have attempted since then to have the guy come and honour his guarantee and get rid of them.

A: It sounds like your termite terminator has been defeated by his career nemesis. Threaten to take him to the Victorian Civil and Administrative Tribunal, VCAT. Only in extreme circumstances would termites fly out of walls. Give me your address I will send you our fact sheets.

Cork tiles

Q: Is there an "easy" way to take up cork tiles, or is it just a matter of lots of elbow grease and hours of picking away at it? We want to get back to the original boards. Any ideas? Mt. Waverley, Victoria

A: First, determine if the floorboards have promise by inspecting the underside of the tiles. Then remove the cork with a scraper, or similar device. Try and soften the adhesive with a hair dryer or solvent. Finish the job with a floor sander, which will also ready your floorboards for polishing. If the floorboards are in poor condition, consider sanding the surface and reinstating fresh cork.

Baltic Pine Flooring

Q: We are about to sand and polish our baltic pineflooring. What are the good and bad points for either oiling the boards after preparation or using a polyurethane paint? D. More, Geelong

A: We are only familiar with using a polyurethane sealant. But there are various oils available as a substitute for sealants. Try contacting a big paint supplier and listen to their recommendations. Floor sanders could also provide a solid opinion. Check the Yellow Pages for locations in your area.

Shrinking floorboards

Q: Hello, I'm hoping you can shed some light on a small problem which has just started to occur in our house. We have recently polished our floorboards throughout the house and in the kitchen had a few replaced by a builder. Much to our alarm the gap between the boards has widened considerably in some cases there is a 3mm gap and the sealed surface has split so that you snag your socks when walking over it. I know it sounds amusing but we are concerned that the house may be moving more than the normal amount. We don't have any cracks appearing around the cornices but some of the ceiling plasterboard has long obvious ones.

A: To keep your socks from snagging, fill the gaps with matching wood filler and then add another coat of sealant. What is likely to have happened is when you pulled up the carpet, the floorboards would have been harbouring some moisture. So as the boards dried out, the floor would shrink slightly, producing those irregular gaps. I doubt this is a structural problem. But if the cracks continue consult an engineer or an architect.