Archicentre Blog

Don’t wait until you have designed your dream home or had the plans drawn up for your big renovation before looking into what approvals might be required before construction can commence. Development controls are often established by local Councils that influence what can – and can’t – be done on a property, particularly in areas of high landscape or heritage significance. It’s critical to find out whether your land is affected by such controls before any design work is done and it’s vital to obtain the necessary development approval if required.

Residential construction work is also governed by the Building Code of Australia and all work must comply with BCA regulations, as well as any supplementary setback, height or other requirements developed by the local Council.

Covenants or easements can also affect your plans by preventing, for example, construction of more than one dwelling on a block (bad news for would-be developers); excavation (bad news if you want an in-ground pool) and lightweight building materials like weatherboard, cement sheet or rendered styrene (bad news if you want to save money).

Finally, if you’re building on a new subdivision there may be Design Standards in relation to façade treatments, material colours, roof forms or fencing.

Clearly it pays to check things out before anyone puts pen to paper.

Starting your project with a design concept that balances your requirements with energy efficiency considerations and all applicable design controls can save you time and money in the long run.

If your project is running weeks late and you're racking up expenses living in rental accommodation you'll wish you were entitled to damages!

Any good building contract will have a Liquidated Damages clause which entitles the owner to claim back from the builder an agreed amount (say $500/week, for example) if the project is delayed without good reason. It shouldn't be seen as a penalty...more as compensation for costs incurred as a result of a client not being able to take possession of their new building at the expected time.

It needs to be agreed at the outset, of course, and the expenses need to have actually been incurred, but it's a good incentive for the builder to have the job done on time. A Damages clause shouldn't bother a good builder, but a tardy one might be a bit reluctant to agree with it.

Have a written contract with your builder and make sure there's provision for Liquidated Damages in it...it's one less worry and one less argument you'll have to have.

Here's one for anyone eyeing off that spacious 1970's carport that would make a terrific rumpus room for the kids or a self-contained flat for the in-laws...do your homework!

There are a few major areas to consider when looking into converting a carport into a habitable room.

Firstly, open carports with a concrete slab floor often didn't have a vapour barrier installed beneath the slab, instead relying on air movement to disperse any dampness rising from the soil below. Enclosing the space keeps the draught out but prevents any moisture on the surface of the slab from evaporating, thereby creating a damp and unhealthy environment.

Secondly, have you had a professional inspect the current structure for asbestos? Asbestos was used in flat sheet fibre-cement building products up until 1982 and in corrugated fibre-cement roofing material up until 1986 because of its cheapness and ease of installation. The real risk of exposure to asbestos fibres and dust occurs with the demolition of walls or roofs during the renovation of a property, and drilling or cutting of products containing asbestos.

Thirdly, construction within 1.0m of a boundary needs to be fire-rated.

And finally, you will probably need to obtain development approval or a Planning Permit to have more than one dwelling on an allotment.

Ignoring any of these important issues could result in you building an illegal, dangerous or hazardous building...difficult to defend and even more difficult to sell!

So before you start your carport conversion, do your homework and seek independent expert advice if you are unsure.

Despite the roof being the vital part of the home, it often escapes the scrutiny of the home buyer as it is out of sight out of mind and requires a professional assessment. According to Archicentre, research from its pre-purchase home inspections has shown 42% of all homes inspected have some type of roof problems. 

Often when homes are sold a fresh coat of paint is used to cover long term tell tale water stains on the interior ceiling and walls or in the case of a metal roof, a fresh coat of paint on the exterior could suggest a quick artificial makeover of a rusty roof.    

The cost of repairing water damage by a leaking roof on plaster, especially lath and plaster in older homes can run into thousands of dollars and is usually discovered after people move into their new home and experience the first heavy downpour. This damage can be caused by a simple lack of maintenance in clearing out guttering or downpipes which cause the water to back up and enter the home.

Apart from the appearance of the roof, it is also vital that inside the roof cavity is inspected for structural soundness.

Following major storms and heavy rain, leaky roof problems can lead to dangerous situations where water can penetrate walls, roof linings, and insulation leading to the growth of mould and deterioration of the home. People who put off having leaks fixed could be putting themselves and their families at risk, especially if the water was likely to enter the electrical system or appliances.

Roof Checklist

• Check guttering and downpipes are clear of fallen leaves, sticks and other debris.
• If there have been storms or high winds look for broken or cracked roof tiles, loose ridge and valley tiles allowing bird and possum entry as well as water leaks.
• Check that corrugated iron sheets are in good condition and well attached.
• Ensure valley and eaves guttering are free from holes and rust. Even small holes can create large leaks often making extensive replacement necessary.
• Make sure flues and chimneys are structurally safe and the flashings around them are secure against water penetration
• Check inside the roof space for water stains or pinholes of light indicating holes in the roof or flashings.

Have you looked at houses for sale recently while they were open for inspection? It's always interesting to see the many different ways in which people can spoil what were once lovely old homes! You may also find that these homes have had illegal building works of some sort or another.

Picture this: A home originally built in the 1930’s with a range of period features that are well preserved inside and out. The 1980's 'improvements' however, are dull, drab and disappointing. The renovation was poorly designed (to access a bedroom you had to go through a study), poorly built (there was a hump in the kitchen floor you could stumble on) or poorly maintained (the “spacious rear sun deck” doesn’t comply with the building regulations and demolition is the only option). On top of these the house has a poky en-suite, a dysfunctional kitchen and a leaky extension which was all built only a decade or two ago. Archicentre inspects thousands of homes for home buyers and find illegal building work of some sort or another in 25 to 30 per cent of the homes inspected.

The sooner people stop designing their own renovations or using 'experts' who have no idea how to add value to a property the better everyone will be. You don't need to spend a fortune...you just need to make sure that whoever's designing the building and doing the building work has some clue as to how to maximise the property’s potential within a budget, but not by cutting corners to save money, which could lead to a future disaster as seen in last night’s Today Tonight episode: http://au.news.yahoo.com/today-tonight/consumer/article/-/13406017/renovation-nation

Here's a tip... Start with a Design Concept that can provide you with fresh design ideas, save you money and more importantly, help you find out if your ideas fit your renovation budget BEFORE you commit to a large expense. A Design Concept will ensure you get it right the first time that you will live happily in your family home and have buyers falling over themselves to buy it when you decide to move on.

There are essentially two types of heating in this world – radiant heating and convection heating, but before we discuss artificial ways of using radiant and convection heating it is important to note that good home design and other energy saving measures such as insulation are far cheaper in improving in home comfort.

Radiant heating produces the most comfortable warmth – this is the heating that you get from the sun.  Radiant heating systems however are slower to respond to heating needs than convection heating and likely to be more expensive up-front. Examples of radiant heating systems are open fires, combustion stoves, in-slab heating, hydronic panels or oil filled radiators. Slab heating utilises either hot water pipes or electrical cables, both of which are cast into the slab during the concrete pour and are used to heat the whole slab.

Convection heating is basically hot air blown into a room...it's generally cheaper to install and quicker to respond to heating needs, but not as ‘cosy’. The most common type of convected heating is a wall furnace, a ducted system or a split system.

If you’re building on a concrete slab and you can handle the expense, slab heating will produce wonderful warmth throughout the home which may be worth every cent if your home is in a cool climate, but will take time to get to the temperature that you want. Get three quotes for both the hot water and the electrical cable type-systems and see how they stack up, not just for the initial cost, but also for ongoing running costs, which will vary from location to location, and the type of fuel used to heat the wires or water (eg: gas, solar, wind, electricity).   Also, don’t forget to specify separate controls for different zones so you’re not heating areas that you’re not using.

If the cost is looking prohibitive, ducted heating through the ceiling (in the case of a slab) and a slow combustion stove in the living room will give you quick, cost-effective heat everywhere and cosy warmth in the room you might spend the most time in. If you’re building on a timber floor consider a hydronic system or perhaps a floor mounted ducted system if the hydronic option is too pricey.

Don't forget that you can also keep your home warmer by designing it to capture and store winter sunshine, by insulating it well and by sealing up gaps around windows and doors to prevent heat escaping

The sensitivities of heritage areas will inevitably mean that there are some local government controls applicable to development on properties in the area. The purpose of these controls is to preserve the amenity and the character of the area.

It's critical that your design takes these controls into account...there's no point in designing a building for which the necessary Council approvals can't be obtained. The best thing you can do to get your project off on the right foot is to prepare a design brief including a summary of your short, medium & long term requirements, your budget and any particular stylistic or lifestyle preferences you might have.

This information will enable a concept design to be prepared that should balance your needs with the needs of the local Council. An accompanying construction cost estimate will help you to decide whether, when and how to proceed with the project. A registered architect can do all of this and Archicentre can help find one just right for you.

If you decide to go ahead with the project your architect can continue to lead you through the sometimes torturous process of getting your building built or you can go it alone. This will typically include the preparation of detailed plans and specifications, permit negotiation, finding a builder and most importantly quality controlling the building work. All of this will cost time and money of course, but you will have an independent industry professional 'in your corner' for the duration of the project and its far cheaper and less stressful than having a dispute with a builder that may end up in extended legal battles.

Alternatively, you can research the heritage controls, design an appropriate building and engage a drafting service to prepare some working drawings, after which you can take responsibility for permit procurement, tendering and construction quality control.

The point is that there is a lot of work to be done to get a building built these days and even more if the property is in a heritage area. Whatever you don't get help with you will have to do yourself, so the best thing you can do is to understand what needs to be done, work out realistically what you can do and get fee proposals for whatever you can't.  Archicentre can provide advice and support in any or all of the areas you will need to address.

Skylights are a great way of getting light into a home, particularly the dark corners of hallways, laundries and bathrooms where a ducted unit can provide a really cost effective solution.

In living spaces something a little more attractive is required. A clear skylight with an open shaft between roof and ceiling lets light in, provides a sky-view out and creates a point of interest and drama in the room. Alternatively, a translucent diffuser at ceiling level with lights installed above creates the illusion of daylight all night long!

For renovators, roof windows are well worth considering. A cluster of roof windows in a raked ceiling provides natural light, ventilation, views and a fantastic ‘conservatory’ feel to even the simplest living space or loft room.

If roof windows or skylights are tricky to install, consider increasing the depth of the windows. A waist-high window, for example, can be replaced by a full height window of the same width with no structural change to the building. It may not generate much of a view, but you can double the amount of light coming in!

Finally, consider repainting in pale colours or place some mirrors strategically around the rooms...this can really maximise the light you already have at a fraction of the cost.

Sloping blocks can impose a premium on construction costs however the opportunities they create for views, floor level changes, raked ceilings and storage solutions can often outweigh any negatives.

To keep costs under control, it's important to consider the most appropriate construction system for the land. Forcing a flat concrete slab onto sloping land, for example, will require extensive cutting, filling and compaction of the filled ground. There is also likely to be considerable cost associated with the construction of a retaining wall around the excavation. Similarly, conventional brick or brick veneer wall construction will require extensive excavation which on a steep, rocky or inaccessible site will add considerable complexity (and cost) to the project.

A better solution will almost always be to 'touch the ground lightly' by designing a structure that works with the land rather than against it. Consider a timber or steel frame with a lightweight cladding system. On steeper ground, consider a pier & beam footing system to minimise excavations and on really steep blocks consider a pole house...the opportunities for a really fantastic design are limitless.

A well considered design can save you money by efficiently using space and effectively using a site-appropriate construction system.

Above all, consider why you bought the land in the first place. If it was to enjoy commanding views then make sure you get a building that maximises them and if it was to experience the natural beauty of the location then don't spoil it!

Our last post highlighted the importance of passive solar design and thermal mass when designing for harsh climates in order to reduce energy costs and make the home more liveable. In real extremes, however, air movement also becomes critical.

Homes built in Australia’s tropical north can become unbearable after a hot spell, particularly homes built with high thermal mass construction as these will absorb heat during the day and retain it for longer periods during the night than homes with a low thermal mass construction. In these environments the need to open the building and thoroughly ventilate it during the evening to help cool it down is critical. Cross ventilation, louvre windows, ceiling sweep fans and thermal chimneys are all integral to the design of a comfortable home in high humidity environments, where even a warm breeze can feel like a breath of fresh air!

The opposite applies in alpine areas or in regional parts of Tasmania, Victoria and New South Wales where the emphasis is on keeping warm air inside the home. Uninsulated ceilings are the biggest source of heat loss in a home, followed by uninsulated walls and the gaps around windows and doors. Weather-sealing around window sashes and doors is one of the most cost-effective ways of keeping warmth in the home, followed by retro-fitting ceiling insulation to older homes. Insulating the walls is difficult and expensive, but worth considering as part of any major renovation.

Wherever you live, however, comfort is only part of the issue. Rising energy costs will make artificial heating and cooling more and more expensive, so anything you can do to reduce your reliance on air-conditioning will benefit your hip pocket as well!

If you need advice about how to make your home cooler in summer an Archicentre Sustainability Assessment can help. 

The key to year-round comfort is passive solar design...design that keeps homes warm in winter and cool in summer.

In the warmer parts of Australia the challenge is to keep the harsh summer sun at bay. This is best done in two ways – by using high thermal mass construction and by minimising and shading north and west-facing windows.

Thermal mass is achieved by using materials that resist heat transfer...typically masonry like brickwork, concrete, stone, rammed earth or mud brick. These materials are slow to heat up, meaning that the radiant heat from the hot summer sun is absorbed by the building rather than being admitted straight into the interior. Lightweight claddings like timber, by contrast, admit heat quickly into the interior of the home. High resistance wall and ceiling insulation can help, but high thermal mass construction is preferable.

Prolonged hot spells can really warm the walls up, however, so it’s also important to position windows and doors so they can be thrown open to cross ventilate the building during the cool of the evening.

Finally, west-facing windows should be avoided if possible and north-facing windows should be carefully shaded with canopies, pergolas or verandas to screen out summer sun but admit winter sunshine. Naturally these will need to be engineer-designed in high wind areas.

If you need advice about how to make your home warmer in winter an Archicentre Sustainability Assessment can help.  

People often ask the following questions with regards to termites...."...are they a problem?"; "...should I be worried?"; "...is there something I should do?" etc. The answer is, of course, "Yes!" to all of the above.

Termites are a problem - they enter properties un-announced, remain undetected for years and do thousands of dollars worth of damage while they're there. You should be worried - every mainland state in Australia is regarded as termite prone - and they are voracious consumers of timber once a colony has been established.

Termites won't necessarily eat straw but the warm, moist conditions present inside straw bales make them a very attractive proposition for nesting, from which they will forage for more appealing food sources. In a similar way, termites can still pose a problem in homes with a steel frame on a concrete slab. Whilst termites won't eat steel, there are plenty of other food sources in the average home like skirtings, architraves, window frames and solid timber cabinetwork.

So what should you do?

If you're buying a home, get a pest inspection...end of story. If you're building or renovating, invest in a termite management system of some sort - a chemical treatment, a physical barrier or a monitoring system - and sleep a little easier at night, particularly if you've seen a pest control van parked in the street!

The key elements of an energy-efficient home are correct orientation and zoning, closely followed by careful materials selection, heavy insulation, window shading, aspect-appropriate glazing, ventilation and weather-sealing to prevent heat leakage in winter.

When designing a new home all of these features can be optimized (living areas to the north side of the home, for example, and minimal glazing to the west), however if you’re renovating or simply trying to reduce the cost of heating and cooling your home it gets a bit more difficult.

Un-insulated ceilings are responsible for considerable heat transfer, so retro-fitting ceiling insulation is a must on older homes. The type and configuration will depend on where your house is situated – the requirements for a house in Melbourne will not be the same as for one in Cairns for example. Weather-sealing doors and windows will help keep you warmer in winter whilst shading north and west windows with canopies, pergolas or verandas will help keep you cooler in summer. Other options include the installation of a solar-boosted hot water service and solar panels, both of which will reduce energy usage.

Water conservation is also important and a water tank is well worth considering.  Other cost-effective improvements include low-flow showerheads, water efficient appliances, dual-flush toilet cisterns and a drought tolerant garden.

Whatever you do will make a difference, so do what you can now and then do more later.

Archicentre provides a sustainability assessment service that identifies the improvements that you can make to your home and can provide you with a written 'to-do' list to guide you through the process.

Families who live in the right place, but in the wrong house have found a solution in renovating.

"Prior to finding the right house, home buyers seek out neighbourhoods for qualities they can check off like items on a wish list. They consciously select areas close to work, near schools, public transport services, shopping facilities, parks, restaurants and intend to have a long involvement in the community. If special needs are required, they renovate.

"Building has been expensive over the last few years however, with the current economic climate now and relatively low interest rates, renovation or building a new home is an attractive financial proposition."

Of those people who do move, they don't move far, often remaining in the community or a neighbouring area. "Moving is an expensive exercise with moving costs up to $50,000 including loan fees, agent fees, removalist fees, and stamp duty costs. These are expensive fees and charges where the funds could be put to better use paying for renovating your home to improve your lifestyle."

The Three Big Questions

Relocate?
The easiest option to consider, but potentially the most costly. This may require a further extension on a mortgage thus loan approval needs to be sought from the financial institution.

Detonate?
Knock it down provided you've received council approval. Pay a visit to display home villages or peruse standard house plans, but keep in mind, it's rare to find a house that totally suits your needs and taste (and alterations to standard plans can be disproportionately costly).

Renovate?
If you want to maximise your property's potential and you are not sure if it can be modified, whether it's feasible or within reach of your budget, Renovation has a threefold advantage. Investment in the family home does not attract capital gains tax when it is sold; people get to enjoy a better lifestyle; and they could turn part of their home into a future revenue stream by creating a self contained living area for rent.

The vast number of demolitions and renovations being carried out in suburbs across Australia as older homes are knocked down has increased the dangers of asbestos to families, neighbours and renovators.

If you have just come back from the beach shack over Christmas and carried out unplanned renovations or pulled down old sheds during the holidays you may have endangered yourself and your family if asbestos was involved.

Large numbers of houses throughout Australia have been constructed using asbestos-cement products as internal and external walls, ceilings and roofing, especially in holiday coastal areas where building a beach shack was a national pastime.

Asbestos was used in flat sheet fibro-cement building products up to 1982 and in corrugated fibro-cement roofing material up to 1986 because of its cheapness and ease of installation.

Archicentre conducts tens of thousands of house inspections and renovation designs each year and is well aware of the widespread presence of asbestos in residential properties.

During any renovation, maintenance or demolition where asbestos is concerned people next to demolition sites should ask to see the asbestos removal plan.

The real risk of exposure to asbestos fibres and dust occurs with the demolition of walls or roofs during renovation of a property, and drilling or cutting of products containing asbestos.

If you are undertaking a renovation or demolition and you suspect that asbestos is involved, get professional help and advice to protect your health and that of anyone living in the home or nearby.

Rising energy and water prices will boost the value of existing green homes and commercial premises leading to a new wave of environmental design, housing products and marketing approaches by the real estate industry.

The pace of rising energy prices has drawn a line in the sand on the costs of running poorly designed and poorly insulated domestic and commercial premises.  This will become a highly identified cost in every family budget and on the bottom line of every business.

Every week there seems to be new charge arriving in the letterbox either for essential services such as power and water, or for council rates and charges. The carbon pricing is set to commence on 1 July 2012 and will lift the cost of living again, notwithstanding the planned assistance offsets.

Home owners with well designed, properly insulated homes including items such as solar panels and rain water tanks, stand to save hundreds or thousands of dollars a year on their energy and water bills as prices escalate dramatically and will be winners. 

The pressure of housing affordability today is not just in the initial building costs as housing affordability has now spread into increasingly costly services such as power, water and gas needed to run a home.

Whilst there are endless calls to address housing affordability there is nowhere near the same level of activity and understanding in reducing running costs to protect the Great Australian Dream of home ownership.

A recent article in the Archicentre Newsletter “Archichat” on Renovating for Retirement attracted many hundreds of visitors to the Archicentre website for more information on design and costings within the first day.

As the cost of living is rising at a rapid rate, especially for older Australians on fixed incomes who have also been caught with a falling sharemarket that cuts their returns, renovating for retirement has become an increased focus.

Renovation is one of the most popular ways for the one million baby boomers, set to retire in the next decade, to try and boost the value of their main asset - the family home.

Renovation has a threefold advantage for baby boomers - investment in the family home does not attract capital gains tax when it is sold, people get to enjoy a better lifestyle and property owners can even take the opportunity to turn part of their home into a future revenue stream by creating a self contained living area for rent.

The opportunity to develop a separate independent living area as part of the renovation that can be rented out is a strategy that can provide retirees with extra income from their home when they are at a stage of downsizing or present a value added aspect when selling the property.

Such a strategy requires careful planning to design the extra toilet, bathroom, kitchen and laundry facilities into a renovation. The compact nature of these features has been refined in the past decade as part of the apartment revolution.

As a starting point people should take professional advice from their accountant as a first step in undertaking the renovation for retirement strategy to ensure their taxation and investment situation is appropriate.

It makes little sense to start a renovation to boost your retirement funds if you lose money on the project.

Archicentre is seeing an increasing number of people following this strategy by exploring their options through the Archicentre Renovation Design service which provides an overall assessment of the construction and financial feasibility of their proposed renovation project.

Home owners need to recognise that renovating for profit to build a retirement nest egg is similar to running a business where costs and profits need to be managed accurately and constantly monitored.